Suvir

Mezze: Bringing Flavors and Magic Of The Middle East And North Africa To Washington County

Our friend Mary Ann Joulwan came up for the weekend, and for a few days, our farm in Washington County became home to the magical flavors of the Middle East and North Africa.

A third-generation Lebanese American, Mary Ann is a consummate New Yorker. What is most surprising about her is that she has a deeper hunger for her roots in Lebanon than one would expect of someone removed from them for these many generations.

Her love for Lebanon and the region is one that transcends religion, politics, and societal connections. Hers is love that is based on history, culture, and that which may never be appreciated through mortal words: that which comes alive when dining, traveling, and sharing with others the many layers of magic that form the cuisine and life of the people of this great region.

On Saturday, the dining room table, a large farm table (10' x 4'), became a stunning, sensual statement of the richness that joins the people and cultures of the Middle East and North Africa together, even when separated by religious and political lines. The table was shimmering with the glow that bounced from the reflective quality of some of the foods, the whiteness of other dishes, and of course the brilliance that takes shape when using glass dishes to serve most of the foods.

With tastes small and large, I know all at our table were transported into another era, into another geographic setting, and certainly have been left to rethink any generalizations they had accepted in their minds as being true of life and culture in the Middle East and North Africa.

Eggs and Kerala, Who Needs More ?!?

Joshua Thomas, the executive sous chef at Dévi, was with us at the farm on New Year's Eve. It was nice to have fellow New Yorkers with whom to toast the new year as midnight arrived. Little did we know what was in store for us New Year's Day. Joshua offered to make his mother, Susy Cherian's Egg Roast, a dish he has grown up eating, and one he loves: and now, so does everyone that ate it on the 1st of January.

Why did I keep this a secret all this while? Not sure... But all I can say is that this dish, the egg roast, will make anyone who has ever wanted to do something new with eggs, beg the Cherians to document this and other favorites of their family.

An Oasis For Our Upstate Palates

Whilst the fate of the Clinton dynasty is still iffy, there is one family that is continuing to shine, delight and keep it's high culinary standards in place.

This time through the foods of the second generation, in this case Max London. Whose restaurant Max London's Restaurant + Bar in Saratoga Springs, New York, has quickly become the place to dine and savor good quality foods since it's not so much in the past opening.

Keeping up with family tradition, Max has given us deprived step-siblings of the happily-dining Manhattan folks with numerous options and choices, finally a restaurant to dine at, have dreamy food and dream up poetic thoughts and feel as if we too live in the midst of some culture. That which is not related to the agrarian parts of our lives. The joke goes around here that the only culture one can find Upstate is Agriculture. Though that certainly is not true!

On March 25th, the night we dined at Max London's , I was thrilled by the outcome of the day. Our dream of supplying eggs to the most qualified and deserving of all pastry shops, Mrs London's was about to come true, even if circuitously.

Through a series of unplanned happenings, we had been connected with Max London. And a call left on his cell phone got answered within an hour. And in minutes I had booked us a table to celebrate Charlie's birthday and also to make our first delivery of 30 dozen eggs. Timing is everything. The 25th of March is a day we celebrate not only for Charlie's birthday, but also as the day of birth for my most impressive and staggeringly brilliant maternal grandfather.

Our finding ourselves dining at Max London's and being seduced by simple but brilliant fare, was nothing similar to what we are accustomed to in our rural life. We have gotten used to other simple stuff that gives us endless pleasure in our country life. This was an unexpected turn, in a direction we could not have imagined. It was a revelation! How can we complain now about life in rural settings? Do we need Manhattan after all? That is a stretch.  On the 25th of March, we discovered the oasis of great food, right next to perhaps one of the best pastry shops ever.

An Egg Magnified In Size And Taste

As someone who is a lifelong devotee of eggs, I never thought anything could make the experiences I have had, savored and celebrated over years around eggs seem any less special than my mind think of them as being.

This last weekend, Geese Eggs have changed that for me and for Charlie and our friends Kate and Paul from Stoke on Trent.

All three of us, big fans of eggs, have been changed forever.

Geese eggs were a first for all four of us, and at first taste, we all exclaimed culinary epiphany.

Never had we tasted eggs so beautifully delicious and in fact so egg like (as they ought to be) and perfect! These eggs seemed to be just grander versions of our other wondrous eggs, given to us by the girls I so love and romance.

These eggs were not any gamier at all. But the yolks huge and ample. And plentiful to the point that you could enjoy the large amount of white and have plenty of yolk to smother every bit of the white and also the slices of bread you bit on to celebrate the deliciousness of a simply fried egg.

In short, larger is better in this case!

Look for geese eggs and savor them. You will find a new romance and belief in eggs. And also discover a great way of enjoying just one egg. And at least for a moment, thinking you are eating light. Fooling yourself into that thought really. But, totally worth it! These are a new gift the farm has given us. And I am now waiting for the next awakening of my mind and senses....

Eggs Galore!

Every night, no matter what city I am at, I call home, and to Charlie's chagrin, ask about how many eggs he found in the chicken coop that day. For some reason, that one piece of information, is important to me. The numbers hardly matter. It is my connection to the farm, the animal life there, and to my own sanity.

Collecting eggs when I am at the farm has become a ritual. And I know it peeves Charlie, since he feels all I am interested in are the chickens and their eggs, and ignore the goats and alpacas and our geese.

Of course that is not true. The animals at the farm, each kind, captivate a different part of me. And are each as dear to me as the other.

Eggs though, and the girls laying them, have a way of distracting me. They have me smitten and charmed. They keep me hungry and also sated.

And chickens and their eggs were the reason I agreed to consider a life in a rural setting. For as long as I can remember, I have wanted to raise chickens and feed on farm fresh eggs.

Redefining Christmas, Stretching Thanksgiving!

Friends:

As the month of December comes our way, I think of all the money that is spent in giving away gifts. Always a great gesture, but not always a necessary gesture. Especially since many have already way too much and yet so many, do not even have the bare necessities for dignified survival.

You can surprise those you love by making the choice, of where to give money in their names, or share with them your favorite charities, and ask them for theirs. The idea is to make Christmas more like Thanksgiving, and also in end, lighter on the pocket (you may get some tax deductions!). Here, I share some ideas that could be yours to use, or perhaps inspire you to create your own charitable gift-giving avenues. The smiles you will bring into lives with nothing, is enough to tide you through any rough times. You will also leave those in whose names you send gifts and yourself, feeling good about helping where you can and in a manner that was not too difficult or out of your means. You can give as little or as much as you want to and have slotted for any particular people in your gift list.

Even something as simple as giving a flock of chickens to a family, only $20, can provide an entire family with sustenance and income—and an education in animal husbandry.

Yes, it will eliminate some boxes from under the tree, some instant gratification on faces (as friends and family open their gifts), but on the other hand, these are gifts that never stop giving and inspiring. And they feed hope that life is magical and the world a small village, after all.

Best still, it will save you much stress, hours spent shopping, relieve you of crazy traffic and crowds, and reduce carbon emissions from driving.

Please consider charitable giving a gift option this year. Make it your new holiday tradition!

Not one to forget our need to splurge a little on ourselves and those we love, I have also added a sweet cookbook and a calendar to my list—neither are in the "non-profit" category, but are the beautiful creations of women I like and admire. These can be yours to give away, or to enjoy in your own home. (Or both!)

Shared below also are a couple of recipes, gifts from people I have loved and been loved by, now yours to share with family and friends.

These recipes, if you give them a try, could also become part of your family's holiday table, adding a new dish, a new spice or two, and of course the magic of masala to your life. Read more below.

The Reach Of A Writer

"In his writings, Michael Ruhlman has explored most trenchantly the identity crisis the contemporary chef faces, and in so doing brought to light the pivotal juncture in the evolution of modern cuisine at which we find ourselves today. He provides profound insight and guidance to all accomplished and aspiring chefs negotiating this transition, who must each themselves come to terms with these very questions."

Noam Arieh Gedalof - Napa Valley

These words from a culinary student quickly bring to the fore the many gifts Michael Ruhlman has as a writer and a leader in our industry.

It also helps quantify the reach of a writer, and more importantly, that of Michael himself.

This Thanksgiving, I myself wanting to share Michael and his writing with those I have in my life. Please make the effort to get his books, and to read them, and even cook inspired by his work, and you will soon find yourself strong and confident in the kitchen and comfortable around food.
 

Addendum: Recipes

Dear friends,

I did not intentionally omit the instructions for the Chicken-Chickpea Harira yesterday: it was an oversight on my part. The entire recipe is now posted here, with the photograph by the oh-so talented Ben Fink.

(Some of my family let me know that they thought I was being cheap, dangling the recipe so that they would buy the book!)

I included the recipe for my Muslim friends observing Ramadan, but anyone can enjoy the spice blend, which is warm and not at all heavy.

Here is another recipe, courtesy of my publishers, Clarkson-Potter, for Goan Shrimp Curry.

Enjoy!

Suvir

American Masala Cookbook Released

Friends:

I am presented with a great moment of pride and nervousness as my second cookbook, American Masala, was officially released into the world by Clarkson-Potter publishers.

I have written more here in my newsletter—please see it, and enjoy new recipes and photos.

Excerpts from the newsletter announcement:

"When my skin color, foreign accent, and recent immigrant-like mannerisms could have robbed me of the pleasures of knowing people, food came wholly to my rescue. Friends and family invited me to their tables and came to mine (even during my first years in America when I lived in modest roommate situations in Manhattan). Food brought us together, spices captivated us, and through their expected and unexpected flavors, we found a communication so sincere that it felt old and tested.

"After a brief exchange or two of nervous stereotypical fears, it was masala that dispelled the unfounded angst and opened the doors to the exploration of the unknown. Food became my weapon of choice and my comfort to ease my homesick mind, soul, and stomach. It also became the seduction that captivated and preserved my relationships."

And below follows the recipe for Chicken Chickpea Harira.

Turning Leaves

Much has changed this year. And of course the seasons are changing and it seems life at the farm, life at Dévi and my own personal life are all following the lead of nature—changing away!