Turning Leaves

Much has changed this year. And of course the seasons are changing and it seems life at the farm, life at Dévi and my own personal life are all following the lead of nature—changing away!

September 1st began with leaves changing color at the farm. It was a nice omen to have Hemant and family with us there, with a couple of other friends. Soumyaa, their daughter, gave the best compliment by enjoying the new chicken recipe I had tested on her, in fact we made it every night during their stay. Now it shall find its way onto the new menu. It is always fun to share a recipe with Hemant, he makes me understand quickly why he does what he does and I what I do. Within 24 hours of seeing me make this recipe, he had found an easier, more streamlined way of taking a home recipe and making it doable for the restaurant kitchen. His smile, big and all telling, made me want to keep sharing new recipes with him, knowing this is what makes him tick. It also made my unforgiving and harsh travel schedule seem meaningful at the end.

Surbhi, Charlie and our house guests from DC went up on the hillier parts of the property and came back with tons of apples. Subhi came holding them in her shirt, an oversized one, since she was wearing  one that was ours. It came to good use. For a minute she almost made me think I had missed her pregnancy, but then, as she smiled, she gave away the fact that she was holding apples in  that bulge. The fruits tell us that we missed many spring blossoms.

Charlie used up the apples they had collected  to make an apple cake, a recipe from his paternal grandmother. I tasted one small bite, hoping to later eat much more. Aasha, our mighty young puppy, the ever energetic blue tick coonhound found the container and in one sitting—no more than five minutes of our absence—had eaten all of what was left. Sadly, I only got one brief taste. It seemed very wonderful.

As green as the apples are, we have tons, and I really mean tons of green tomatoes. We made fried green tomatoes the other day, and whilst the taste was wonderful, they could have been sliced thinner. Will be working on a recipe for those. Now that we have them, I know they will become a staple at the table.

Laura Lehrman and John Ochse were with me as we made them. We added some masala and some fun ingredients to the flour, made quite a nice crust. Of course I had to call ever talented and gracious Scott Peacock on the phone to get his blessings as we got the tomatoes readied for dinner. He did say they were not his first choice of recipe to think of when playing in the kitchen with green tomatoes.

Having Hemant and Surbhi at the farm with Soumyaa gave me the pleasure of knowing that Hemant would take some time off to be with family and friends. Otherwise, his smile is biggest when on stage with customers and working with his team at the restaurant.

Certainly Soumyaa can get away with murder around him. She is darling and has grown faster than one could imagine. She even speaks about being a chef and loves to watch what happens at the stove and around it. I was worried a couple of times for her safety, but I know kids are resilient and parents are very smart and savvy. It is us non-parents who worry much more.

As you can see in the photo of father and daughter, they are quite charming together and never shy of a big smile. Mom too was relaxed and enjoying herself. She enjoyed being with Charlie and me at the farm, since we all got to spend much quality time together.  What was sad for Soumyaa was the absence of Karun, my nephew, who was unable to come up last minute. My sister and brother-in-law decided they had much work to catch up with and would use the weekend to play catch up. Sadly, we all missed their company and especially the energy and excitement that charge the air when Soumyaa and Karun are together.

The turning leaves and the little extra time Hemant and I have been afforded as we get everything settled before the reopening of Dévi, brought Maricel Presilla and Alex Presilla to the farm. The same weekend, we also had Marina and Shaukat Fareed. The six of us had great fun at the farm, cooking local meats and homegrown veggies. Dinner was wonderful and even more brilliant than it could have been in any other setting because of the company. Not often that one can collect a group of six and create harmony at all levels. It happened this weekend.

Marina is the Queen of Pakistani cookery and will be joining us at the Worlds of Flavor Conference at Greystone (CIA) in November.

Maricel of course needs no introduction. Armed with a doctorate in medieval studies and literature, she is also an anthropologist and food historian of the bursting and all-consuming countries and cultures of the Americas and the Islands. Her husband Alex is a doctor by day and a consummate foodie and lover of life every minute.

Shaukat Fareed a diplomat by training and vocation and the facilitator of great conversations. He is a sophisticate, the likes of which I wish more American's could meet and enjoy, for quickly any stereotypes related to Pakistan and Moslems would quickly be questioned and changed.

Charlie and I had to do very little. In fact all we did was keep the platters and bowls filled with edibles, glasses filled with spirits and other liquid wonders, and the rest was handled for us by these four marvelous friends. Meeting each other for the first time, but relishing the common thread we each had—a love for life, people, culture, food, wine and the endless hope that comes from having traveled the globe and seen true magic across all lands.

Of course how could Maricel and I be together and not obsess about chickens. It could not happen and so, we spent long hours around and speaking about the chickens at the farm. Maricel also opened up the world of Chicken Auctions for me. Now, Charlie and I are the proud parents-in-waiting for at least a dozen more birds. By end of this month, we shall have 80 chickens.

They are the most wonderful thing that has happened in my life. And they keep me sooooo entertained and happy. The eggs are wondrous and DELICIOUS! The flavor and color rich and deep. They spoil you forever and quickly. Just this morning, Charlie and I were eating breakfast at a local diner, and the eggs, which we usually order, seemed so banal and common. Nothing had changed with the restaurant's rendering of their excellent scrambled eggs, it was us that had been spoiled by the natural and haunting taste and color of our own farm eggs.

Check out the photograph of two of our eggs and one from the grocery store. Charlie only buys organic eggs from the supermarket. But as you can see, that really means nothing. It is often nothing more than a label. The yolks from the eggs our girls are laying are much more orange. We also have many eggs with two yolks. Wondering if that is temporary, till the girls mature. They are only now beginning to lay eggs, which get bigger every say. Sunday, Charlie found one of the largest eggs he has ever seen, at least as far as chicken eggs go. He had to call me as Hemant and I prepared the tasting meal we were serving at Jiko, at the Animal Kingdom Lodge at Disney. Hemant and I both smiled as he was telling me this news. How funny that our lives have to stop and ponder such stuff these days. It does make sense though, for even through the mad rush of dishing out food for large numbers of people, we each got connected even if only very briefly, to nature and something far more sincere and real.

Our chickens too, are enjoying fall, the leaves, and the color. I even wonder if some of them were placed in our midst to show us natures' rich camouflage? The Buff Minorca hens and the Americana (Araucana, but not really) are perfect complements to this season and fall landscape. 

It has been almost a year that we have lived at the farm. And the year has been quite a challenge. As exciting as it has been, we have exhausted every resource we have to enrich our land and its life. Whilst the bank account is poorer than ever, our hearts and minds could not be richer and more thrilled.

Who could have thought that a city slicker from New Delhi by the way of New York and a small-town (not country) guy from West Virginia could ever make it as farmers? Think again! American Masala Farm is now a full-fledged farm. Living, breathing and even smelling like a working farm with every magic and drama of any farm you can think of. 44 dairy goats, 3 angora goats, several weathers (fixed male goats), 2 Alpacas, 80 chickens, 10 geese and of course 2 cats and 2 dogs and the wild but landlord-like Blue Heron, Canadian Geese, foxes, chayotes, ducks, pheasants, cougars, deer and other creatures that stake claim to a land theirs long before we moved into a tiny part of it.

 

So, as the seasons change, the leaves turn, our lives are contemplating major changes and newer opportunities come our way, we are acutely aware of our role in life, and the greater reality of what we truly are (often nothing) in the larger scope of things. That has put in perspective what we are faced with, and makes us smile even when all seems to be slipping from our midst. As "Deepak Chopra" as it may seem, it is this that keeps us going and allows us to never lose touch with reality, and also never lose hope. We do what is in our control, we give each day our very best, and with that, we look forward to the new seasons, the new opportunities that will certainly arise and the unexpected beauty of the moments even our dreams can never visit. Just as seasons must change, life, too ,moves from what we call good and bad. Whilst we give them such names and positive or negative connotations, they are only two different happenings and the smart amongst us realize that neither is a guarantee. Somewhere between the extremes is the most beautiful cradle of life that one ought to dwell in.

Comments

[bee]

what a magical oasis you and charlie have created, suvir. thanks for sharing it with us.

[Suvir Saran]

Sometimes we wonder what is pushing us to do any or all of this.
It is very fulfilling, but also quite a full time task. All enveloping and draining.
It is the animals and the natural beauty of the setting that give us pleasure and faith in ourselves, and thinking we are doing what is right, even if foolish fiscally.
Maybe someday, we shall be able to reap some of what we sow today.
Words such as yours are encouraging and helpful. Thanks Bee!

[Nikki]

Wow...I enjoyed visiting ur farm !!!
So Aasha likes Apple cake ehh.. My own canine cant stop having ice creams,kheer and not to mention chocolate fudges :D.
By the way I had grabbed a copy of ur cookbook "Indian Home cooking" from a local library here. But I couldnt see most of ur recipe pages for it was teared by someone. Maybe the recipes was too good to be parted that it had to be teared.:D
Cheers!!

[Curtis]

Very excited about this cookbook. I have a whole shelf of cookbooks and Indian Home Cooking has to be one of the most utilized ones. We have loved everything we've made from it.

[Suvir Saran]

Nikki and Curtis,
thanks for making time to post here.
Appreciate your kind words of encouragement.
Glad to hear the book is being used, Indian Home Cooking that is.
It makes me very happy to come home after a tiring day and find letters of praise from people from all parts of India, from India itself and here in the US and elsewhere, that are enjoying the recipes.
many have found it special for they see home-style recipes in full glory.
that makes me most happy.

Hope you and all that work with American Masala will enjoy it just as much. It has been a beautiful journey working with Raquel to get it at this juncture.

[Jackie Forman]

Hi Suvir, We were in Manchester, Vt.last week shopping at the wonderful kitchen store there and I mentioned we are currently in "Indian cooking mode." Your Indian Home Cooking was flashed before our eyes and we returned home clutching it. Since then we have eaten your recipes every single day. We've become intimately acquainted with Indian spice stores in the tri-city area and my larder is now full of spices, all in alphabetical order! My husband enjoys your food so much we yesterday ran down to Barnes & Noble in Colonie and bought American Masala and he raved about your french toast this morning. We live just south of Saratoga and have a 50 acre vaguely working farm ... our neighbour has about 150 cows so he either plants corn in our fields or takes the hay. So we have an idea what you have been up against to achieve all you have. You've certainly made amazing progress. I would just love to have chickens and actually even have a chicken coop but fret about how we would care for them in the winter. I come from England originally and well remember eating duck & goose eggs there - they were wonderful - but I never see them for sale here. Do you sell yours somewhere??? And do you sell your eggs? - they are probably worth a trip from anywhere! You're only about 3/4 of an hour from us I think. We go to Cambridge quite often and last year, on the way there, a cougar crossed the road in front of us which was a thrill. Here, we've seen plenty of coy dogs, but so far no cougars! I noted that you listed them along with the other critters you have at the farm. Anyway I really just wanted to tell you how much we are enjoying your recipes which are opening up a whole new world to us. You have presented them in such a straightforward easy-to-follow fashion and the little explanatory paragraphs, giving credit to others, or just explaining the recipe further are charming and a lovely touch. Oh, and I read on the cover flyer of American Masala that you are opening up a chain of casual dining restaurants in 2008 - are any of them close to us here???? Or close to you there? Hope all is continuing well for you - and thanks for restoring my passion for cooking! I was getting very bored with my repertoire and now you've kicked me back into 6th gear! My husband thanks you too! All the Best, Jackie

[Suvir]

Hi Jackie!
Thanks for writing and even more so, for taking time to report on all that you have done since that visit to JK Adams I am guessing.
Enjoy the cookbooks. I hope they continue giving you pleasure.
If you cook your way through many recipes, you will soon find yourself knowing a lot about our cuisine and can play around and make dishes that are Indian inspired at the least, and maybe authentic too, without your knowing it.
Our cuisine is all about layers of flavors. And really, at the core, a very simple cuisine, with exceptionally delicious food that not always has calories to make it decadent and bad for you.
Please thank your husband too for going out and getting American Masala.
I am told the French Toast he makes have become quite the rage and hit at Williams Sonoma in NYC (Time Warner Center) and are made often for employees and customers. This is a simple recipe that is a hand me down from mom via her mom. But yes, people tell me it quickly becomes a staple in their kitchens and a part of their own family tradition. This was the goal of American Masala; to give everyday comfort foods from across the world a new stage at one's plate.

You can taste our eggs at Max London's (http://www.maxlondons.com/) in Saratoga. Max uses our eggs and his food is amazing. We are HUGE fans of his restaurant, and it was a wonderful surprise to note that Max and his parents, Wendy and Michael of the exceptional Mrs London's in Saratoga (http://www.mrslondons.com/) are big fans of Devi. How funny that we all met one another because of our eggs and were connected by Jen and Mike the owners of Flying Pigs Farm (http://www.flyingpigsfarm.com/) in Shushan, New York.

We sell eggs at the farm. And of course we also sell goose eggs. And soon enough, we hope to savor and share/sell cayuga duck eggs as well. The girls are a couple of weeks old and growing fast. Like the geese, these ducks are heritage ducks and lay dark, almost black eggs.

Email me at chef@suvir.com and I can send you our coordinates and maybe you can drive by and come visit the farm, meet us and get yourself some eggs. Michael London of Mrs. London's considers our eggs the best, and says he is spoiled because of them and now eating them himself. He said something about our chicken eggs being naturally fortified with butter. They are really delicious, rich and so fresh.

I am at the farm this next week, until Sunday. If you can plan ahead, and email me, it would be an honor to meet you and sign your copies of both my books. And of course you can visit with the animals (goats, baby goats, chickens, geese, ducks, alpacas and angora goats) and also get yourself some chicken and goose eggs.

Best,

Suvir