World Heritage Site - Humayun's Tomb - A site that is a sight to behold, restored nicely, and a place I feel proud to be Indian

Humayun's Tomb could easily have been that trendsetting architectural design that has changed how we see the world today. It is luckily a UNESCO World Heritage Center, and that has helped it gain much grandeur in the last several years. Like the more famous Taj Mahal (which many believe was inspired by this tomb or at the least is a logical progression of this tomb) it is an edifice that symbolizes love for ones spouse. In this case, the devoted love of a wife for her husband. The Taj Mahal was the other way, built for the devotion to a wife, by her husband.

For some reason, or rather, because of the wondrous energy and beauty of this much more accessible tomb (in comparison to the very well recognized Taj Mahal), Charlie and I visit Humayun's Tomb on every visit to India. Partly because we both miss it when back home in the US, and also to see how the restoration work is going. It seemed like it was pretty close to completion this time around. What is most beautiful, like at the Taj, built later, are the two wonderful lofty, double storied gateways through which you arrive at the main tomb. These people knew just how to create drama and oomph! The photo above is taken after we enter the first gateway, and are looking at the second, and those that come first time, feel what they see ahead, is the tomb in entirety, little do they know the architectural mirages that were created by these architects in old India.

Above is the sight you behold as you enter the second gateway. And this is just the beginning of an amazing adventure. It is only after you have arrived at the tomb area, that you realize just how VAST and huge an undertaking this tomb must have been. It was commissioned after the death of Humayun (1556) by his beloved wife, Hamida Baanu Begum. Construction began in 1569. This tomb is considered to be the first example of what has become known as Mughal Style of architecture. It is a mix of Persian and Indian styles of architecture. It is believed that perhaps Humayun may have helped Hamida Baanu Begum design this tomb in his memory. Of course his inspiration came from his exile in Persia.

The main tomb stands in the centre of a square garden, divided into four main parterres by causeways (charbagh), in the centre of which run shallow channels of water. These channels function employing the gravitational pull of the earth. No electric pumps here. Does one see the muse for many later gardens and landscaped parks? I do.

The crows and pigeons of Delhi seem to enjoy the tomb as much as we do. And of course they have a sense of ownership of the place that only those that are settled for a long period in one place have. They are blessed to have such a magical home, and we are blessed to be able to enjoy their merriment.

 

The street dogs of Delhi (New Delhi) do not have it easy. Seeing them is one of the most difficult things I deal with. Really? What about the hapless poor? Yes, they also pose a significant amount of questioning, soul searching, anxiety and shame in my psyche. How could it not? What right do I have to be comfortably placed, when so many have nothing? But that is nothing I can answer, and certainly is something I ponder over often. I am always grateful to the poor, for being so much more generous of spirit, and being so kind as to allow me to live as I do, even as they suffer as they do. I thank the powers that be for the comforts I have, which often I take for granted, every time I see a beggar in Delhi. But I would be wrong if I did not say I also grieve for the street dogs. Not to say either equals the other. They each just happen to provide residents and tourists with sights around the street, that are not always easy on the eye, or the soul or the mind. But at Humayun's Tomb, the dogs seem to be at peace. They are still scrawny and gaunt. Would the physique of the dogs change as they become nouveau riche? Start eating at KFC and Ruby Tuesday? Has it changed already? I am sure the street dogs are getting plenty of their share of such fast foods already. Has anyone studied how that is affecting their diet? Above, you see the dogs grazing and snoozing in the grass around the tomb.

The flora also speaks of a certain planning and plenty of a lack-thereof in planning. You can see the old ficus trees, saying we belong, we had a purpose, we provide shade, we add to the personality and we have seen mankind through the ages. And then you have the loud and vocal, even if in silence, Palm Trees that speak of a new generation, that hardly cared that the palms could seem somewhat out of place, but as the trees have matured, it seems they have lost some of the garishness that comes from being new and feeling flush. They seem to almost belong, or at least not be too much of an aberration. They have made their peace about who they are. What purpose if any they have. And what they have lacked from the beginning. It is perhaps this knowledge in the trees, that gives them some semblance of a belonging in the complex that houses this fabulous tomb. What would happen if we too can understand who we are, what we should not be, what we ought never to think we can be and what we ought to do after realization that ego alone or good looks alone, do not guarantee success or acceptance? The answers to these certainly would vary from person to person, and within each community. But one who has the strength to take the answers, and then live accordingly, is almost as wise as the trees, and will make a home wherever they are - a home that gives them comfort and peace. Where they shine even in austerity, and they seem circumspect in opulence, and in harmony even when speaking loudly. That is the magic of a savvy mind and person. And it is this sophistry in design, in planning and in pageantry that these Moghuls knew, that seems never out of fashion.

Below are images that I hope you will enjoy. Images of the Humayun's Tomb, of the other ruins that are part of the complex. And there are images of Charlie and our friend Deborah from Wales. You can se from their faces, how happy and at peace they are. There is an image also of the neighboring Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) as well. They say enough on their own. And of course as you google Humayun's Tomb, you shall find plenty of history to read and enjoy. If you have visited it years before, make it a point to visit again. You will find it even more wonderful. If you have never gone, make sure when in Delhi, this is one of the last places you see, and give yourself plenty of time. It is well worth seeing last, for you are guaranteed a certain unexplainable peace of mind and comfort when you arrive here. And if you are lucky, some mad man like me, will be singing around the tomb, in the chambers that house the tombstones of the nobles. The echos the music creates, especially if it is of the classical bent, or sufi in style, will float you away to another time, another planet even, even if only for a brief moment in time.

 







In this last photograph above, you can see the dome of the Sikh temple (Gurudwara). The trees when were were there this last time, at sunset, were laden with the brigh green Indian parrots, who chirp and shine like few birds ever do. Parrot Green is electric in textiles of India, and the electricity seems nuclear on the parrots themselves. No wonder Charlie and Deborah, seem smiley and happy, even as they are being photographed towards the end of a couple hours spent amongst tombstones. It is after all a graveyard. Just a glorious and striking one. One where love and happiness are celebrated as if the dead are still living and sharing, singing and dancing, flirting with each other and life, in luscious ways, in boundless glory.

Comments

[Deborah]

Ah what a day we had! So many good memories of my time in India. I long to go back, i belong there. Good news is i found an Ayurveda doctor here in the WHALES. Can't believe how advanced we have become, you would be shocked dear S! Love to Charlie. I leave to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro tomorrow for a wonderful charity. Hope & Homes for Children. I hope to return in one piece if a little slimmer! love to you both xxxxx

[Sally]

Suvir - should you tire of cooking and your many related culinary endeavors, you have a future as a photographer.
You have managed to convey the grandeur of the tomb, along with the little details - all so amazing! I will add this place to my list of must-gos, for sure.

[Suvir]

Deborah, have fun climbing and raise tons of money for the children. You are wonderful to do this. Another friend, Ilya, just came back after clmbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, he was climbing to raise funds for his charity, http://fistulafree.org/
You are both inspiring and grand.

Ayurvedic Doctor in Wales? WOW! Are you sure this person is not a whale really? Trying to get you to prepare it wonderful veggies, cooked the Ayurvedic way, so it can lazily rest ashore, and put you to work? Exercise and good eating are part of the Ayurvedic principles. So in end, this Whale of Wales, even if cloaked as an Ayurvedic Doctor, may do you good. LOL!

I long for India too.. and long to go back every time I am back. My love and longing for India, strangely though, begin only after my return home here in the US. Huh!

Sally, you are always too kind to me. You are too good a friend. Blinded by adoration of a dear one. The tomb is amazing. There are around 150 graves and many call it the Indian Necropolis.

That this tomb led to the creation a century late of the Taj Mahal, built using the same char bagh (four fold) landscape and architectural concept, is a testament to the grandeur, vision and scope of this much more modest tomb. And yet, what is shocking is the size and grandeur of this tomb itself. It is neither small, nor modest, nor humble in any way. It just is much smaller and modest in comparison to the offspring that it may have helped bring to life.

You certainly must go see this amazing example of Mughal architecture and life. I sometimes feel I certainly lived in those times, and that even today, I sometimes pretend I am living in those days. This perhaps explains why I am always humming away tunes written or even composed during that part of Indian history, and in the middle of our kitchen, in Washington County in North Country, NY, I feel I am still at peace and in the company of, and getting inspired by my Moghul peeps.

[Sally]

Moghul peeps, rofl! Thanks for the belly laugh!

[Suvir]

Seriously, I wonder if I may have been Akbar, Humayun, NOT-EVER-Aurangzeb, Birbal (am I that wise?!), even the weak Bahadur Shah Zafar, Amir Khusrau or Ghalib (if I were lucky in my last life) or even Amiran "Umrao Jaan Ada"....
I meant this seriously.
Certainly feel most times, that I would rather have been living in those times, and so when not dreaming, I try and make as much of that period as possible, connected to me in this life.

[hafiz]

Shall we address you as Alampana from now on, given your choice of royal identities : )?

I think Bahadur Shah Zafr would be nice (sans his last days).

اِن حسرتوں سے کہہ دو کہیں
اور جا بسیں
اتنی جگہ کہاں ہے دلِ داغدار
میں
"kaeh do in hassretoń se kahīń aur jā bas'éń
itnī jageh kahāń hé dil-e-dāGhdār méń"

yup...those were interesting times. I do like the romance and the mystery of those times. I wish sometimes I was born as an Amish person and live a much simpler life than what I have now.

You bring back memory from 7 years ago. I went to Delhi from Dhaka. This friend promised to take me to Humayun's tomb. We drove around and around...saw the Fort and other neighborhoods. He showed me a small mausoleum and said that it was the tomb. Later in the day...he confessed...he didnt know where Humayun's tomb was. It didnt matter...the memories of searching for it ...is priceless.

Thanks to you...now I got to see Humayun's tomb.

There are some nice Moghul structures in Dhaka still...by the river. One was of Aurangzeb ....that has a secret tunnel to escape to the river. oh..btw...no to Aurangzeb : ).

salaam.

[Suvir]

Salaam to you too!

Alampana is not what i ever want to be called. Or perhaps I do. LOL!

That ghazal is so beautiful. Every word brings tears in my eyes. Can you translate that stanza for all. Please.

Glad you finally got to see Humayun's Tomb. It is electric. There is something very stately about it, even in simplicity and ruin.

[hafiz]

My understanding is...he wrote this in captivity in Burma about his fate and his last days...Here is the whole poem. It does shake you when you read it in Urdu.

"My heart has no repose in this despoiled land
Who has ever felt fulfilled in this futile world?

The nightingale complains about neither the sentinel nor the hunter
Fate had decreed imprisonment as the harvest of spring

Tell these longings to go dwell elsewhere
What space is there for them in this besmirched heart?

Sitting on a branch of flowers, the nightingale rejoices
I have strewn thorns in the garden of my heart

I asked for a long life, I received four days
Two passed in desire, two in waiting.

The days of life are over, evening has fallen
I shall sleep, legs outstretched, in my tomb

How unlucky is Zafar! For his burial
Not even two yards of land were to be had, in the land of his beloved."

The last verses in Urdu:

"kitnā hé bad-naseeb zafar dafn ke liye
do gaz zamīn bhī na milī kū-e-yār méń"

If you like this ...you might like Faiz Ahmed Faiz. He writes amazing as well!

[Stacey]

Stunning photography, Suvir. As well as a compelling interpretation of your visit and India's intoxicating effects. It's definitely on my bucket list :)