Vegetarian dishes to be thankful for and get comfort from

PARTY CAULIFLOWER

Gobhi Masalam
Serves 4 to 6

Panditji used to make this dish for my mother’s very fancy, annual dinner parties when I was a child.  I loved those parties: the table would be lavishly set with our best china, silverware and linens and we all feasted on a vast array of exquisite foods complemented by Panditji’s best pickles.  I make this now for special occasions because it never fails to impress. 

For this Mogul dish, a whole head of cauliflower is first steamed until almost tender (Panditji taught me to add a little milk to the water to keep the cauliflower white), then deep-fried to enhance its flavor, then finally glazed with a spiced tomato sauce.  Because the dish takes some time to make and it reheats well, I always make it in advance and heat it up in the oven just before serving.

1 large head cauliflower, trimmed completely of leaves, stem trimmed flat

2 tablespoons milk

1/8 teaspoon garam masala

 

TOMATO SAUCE

3 medium red onions

2 medium garlic cloves

1 1/2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and sliced

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 inch cinnamon stick

5 whole cloves

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

28-ounce can tomatoes in puree, pureed in a food processor or blender

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

 

Canola oil, for deep-frying

 

1.  Bring about 1 inch of water to a boil in a saucepan large enough to hold the cauliflower.  Add the milk and garam masala.  Put the cauliflower in the pan, stem end down.  Cover and steam until the stem is just beginning to soften when you insert a skewer into the head, about 7 minutes.  Drain well.

2.  For the tomato sauce, combine the onions, garlic, and ginger in a food processor and process to finely chop.  Set aside.

3.  Combine the oil, cinnamon, cloves, and bay leaves in a large wok, kadai, or frying pan over medium-high heat.  Cook, stirring, until the cinnamon unfurls, 1 to 2 minutes.  Add the pureed onion mixture and the salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion begins to brown around the edges, about 10 minutes.  Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric and cayenne and cook, stirring, 1 minute.  Add 1 tablespoon of water and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to stick to the pan, about 1 more minute.  Add the pureed tomato and stir to combine.  Add the garam masala and cook, stirring often, 5 minutes.  Taste for salt and set the sauce aside.

4.  To fry the cauliflower, heat 1 1/2- to 2- inches of oil in a medium wok, kadai, or large saucepan over medium-high heat to 375˚ F.  Holding the cauliflower by the stem, lower it gently into the pot of oil.  The oil will come about half-way up the head.  Cook until the top of the head is nicely browned, about 1 minute. Turn the head carefully with a slotted spoon and cook until the other side is browned, 2 to 3 more minutes.  Drain on a paper towel-lined plate.  Then carefully set the head, stem side down, into an ovenproof serving dish and ladle the tomato sauce over to completely cover.

9.  When you are ready to eat, preheat the oven to 300˚F. Bake the cauliflower until warmed through, about 15 minutes.  Cut into wedges and serve hot.

SPICY PEAS SAUTEED WITH GINGER

Matar Kee Chaat

Serves 4

My father’s cousin, Sunita Bua, used to make these peas for me and my family when we’d visit her during the winter months.  She knew my father loved them and, as we always dropped by unannounced, she needed a dish that cooked quickly, as these do.  We’d eat the peas as a snack, on top of toast, with a dab of mint chutney.  I make her recipe and serve it as she did, sprinkled with thin “sev”, fine, crispy noodles made of chickpea flour, stocked in most Indian markets.  You may also serve the peas as a side dish, of course; I particularly like them with a chicken curry.  I also use the peas to rim the edge of Party Cauliflower for a contrasting color. 

Any leftover peas I use in a frittata: put the peas in a an oven-proof frying pan seasoned with olive oil, pour over eggs whisked with salt and pepper and cook, covered, over low heat for about 5 minutes until the base is just set and the top still liquid.  Uncover and finish in a 450˚F oven until the eggs are set and puffy, about 10 minutes.

 

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds

3 tablespoons canola oil

3 whole, dried red chilies

4 inches fresh ginger, peeled and grated

1 fresh, hot green chili, cut crosswise into 5 pieces

1/8 teaspoon asafetida (optional)

Two 10-ounce packages frozen petite peas, unthawed

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

1 bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped

Juice of 1 lime

1/4 cup chickpea noodles (sev), optional

Lemon wedges, for serving

 

1.  Put 1 tablespoon of the cumin in a heavy frying pan and toast over medium heat, stirring often, until lightly browned and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.  Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a powder.

2.  Combine the oil, the remaining 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, and the red chilies in a large wok, kadai, or frying pan over medium-high heat.  Cook, stirring, until the cumin turns golden brown, about 1 minute.

3.  Add the ginger, green chili, and asafetida, if using, and cook, stirring, 1 minute. 

4.  Add the peas, cayenne, salt, and half of the cilantro.  Cover and cook until the peas are tender, about 10 minutes.  Stir 3 or 4 times and check the cooking; if the spices begin to burn, turn the heat down.  Stir in the lime and toasted cumin.  Taste for salt.  Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the remaining cilantro and the noodles, if using.  Serve hot, with lemon wedges.

 

Serve the Party Cauliflower and Spice Peas Together and replace a roast in your menu with an amazing vegetarian option.

 

Stir Fried Green Beans with Coconut

Bean Poriyal

Serves 4

All of the Americans for whom I cook most often seem to love coconut; I’ve realized finally that it’s a very easy way to keep them all happy.  What I like about this particular dish is that the coconut adds flavor without excessive richness.  Serve this as a side dish to a more formal meal or with lentils and rice for a simple dinner at home.

 

3 tablespoons canola oil

2 teaspoons yellow split peas (channa dal or supermarket variety), optional

1 tablespoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon hulled black gram beans (urad dal), optional

3 whole, dried red chilies

8 fresh or 12 frozen curry leaves, torn into pieces 

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/8 teaspoon asafetida (optional)

1/2 cup unsweetened, shredded coconut

3/4 pound green beans, both ends trimmed, beans cut on an angle into 1-inch pieces

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon saambhar or rasa powder (optional)

1 cup water

 

1.  Combine the oil, yellow split peas, and mustard seeds, if using, in a large wok, kadai, or frying pan over medium-high heat.  Cover (the mustard seeds pop and splatter) and cook until you hear the mustard seeds crackle, 1 to 2 minutes.

2.  Add the urad dal, chilies, curry leaves, and cumin and cook uncovered, stirring, 1 more minute.  (Stand back; the curry leaves spit when they hit the oil.)

3.  Add the asafetida and 1/4 cup of the coconut and cook, stirring, 30 seconds.

4.  Add the beans and the salt and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. 

5.  Add the remaining 1/4 cup coconut, the saambhar or rasam powder, if using, and the water.  Bring to a simmer, cover and cook until the beans are tender, about 10 minutes.  Then uncover and cook, stirring often, until all of the water has evaporated, about 5 more minutes.  Taste for salt and serve hot.

Brussels Sprouts with Apples and Almonds

Serves 8

This is the only way that I will eat Brussels sprouts. I learned this dish from two talented Philadelphia-based artists and good friends, Daniel Heyman and Vincent Renou. They made it for me when they stayed at my apartment in the Village. It was the first time I had ever had Brussels sprouts; I couldn’t believe how delicious they were. Now, whenever I see beautiful Brussels sprouts at the greenmarket or grocery store, this is how I prepare them. It’s an absolutely lovely holiday side dish.

 

3 pounds Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed and ends trimmed

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

3 Granny Smith apples, thinly sliced

1 cup sliced almonds

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 small red onions, thinly sliced

1/3 cup raisins or currants

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 stick unsalted butter cut into small pieces

 

Set one oven rack to the center position and one to the upper-middle position. Heat your oven to 350°F. With a paring knife, cut an X into the bottom of each Brussels sprout and then place them in a large bowl. Add everything except for the butter, toss together and transfer to a gratin or baking dish. Dot the top with half of the butter.

 

Bake the Brussels sprouts for 30 minutes. Sprinkle the remaining butter over the top and bake for another 30 minutes. Heat your broiler to high. Place baking dish on upper-middle rack and broil for 2 minutes or until the top layer of the casserole is browned (watch carefully as broiler intensity varies). Taste for seasoning and serve.

Grandma’s Cornbread

Makes 1 9-inch skillet of cornbread

Grandma Hayes in West Virginia taught me how to make cast iron skillet cornbread. By adding some Indian spices and seasonings, I’ve adjusted her recipe to reflect my cooking style. This cornbread has become a staple in my home and a favorite among many friends. To add a smoky edge, roast the corn over a high flame on your gas cooktop or on a baking sheet under the broiler before before combining the kernels with the other cornbread ingredients.

 

1 stick unsalted butter cut into 8 pieces

2 cups fresh corn kernels (cut from about 3 ears)

1 small onion, finely chopped

1/2 pound Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated

1 package Jiffy corn muffin mix

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

1 jalapeño (seeded and veined if you prefer a milder flavor), sliced into thin rings

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 cup fat-free plain yogurt

 

Heat your oven to 400°F and set an oven rack at the lowest position. Melt the butter in a 9-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Once melted, reduce the heat to low.

 

Place the corn, chopped onion, cheese, corn muffin mix, flour, cilantro, jalapeño, salt, cayenne pepper and cracked pepper in a large bowl and set it aside. Lightly whisk the egg and yogurt together in a medium bowl and add it to the corn mixture, stirring until just combined (the consistency will be thick).

 

Pour the cornbread batter into the hot skillet and using a rubber spatula, press batter into the pan. The butter will rise up the sides of skillet and over top of batter. Tilt the skillet toward you, and then rotate it away from to evenly coat the top of the batter with melted butter. Bake until its top is golden brown and a cake tester comes out clean, about 30 to 35 minutes (some butter will still be bubbling around the edges of the skillet). Remove the skillet from oven and set it aside to cool for at least 5 minutes before slicing and serving.

Balsamic & Honey Glazed Onions

Serves 8

 

These onions are a staple on my dinner table. They are amazing with meats, Roasted Chicken and Grilled Pork Chops, as well as with any vegetarian biriyani or side dish. Incredibly easy to make, just toss them together in the morning, roast them and leave them out at room temperature until you’re ready to serve. They’re heavenly with eggs for breakfast or on an antipasti platter. Make a double batch—one for now, one for tomorrow. Don’t use up your good balsamic here; the cheap supermarket stuff works beautifully.

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for greasing baking dish

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

2/3 cup honey

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

10 small red onions (about 3 pounds), root end trimmed and halved

 

Heat your oven to 400°F. Grease a large baking dish with olive oil and set aside. Whisk the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, honey, rosemary, thyme, salt and pepper together in a large bowl. Add the onions and toss with glaze. Transfer to a baking dish and roast until the glaze is thick and bubbling, turning and basting the onions every 30 minutes, for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Cool for 30 minutes and serve while still warm or at room temperature.

Scalloped Corn

Serves 8 to 10

My partner Charlie, who grew up in West Virginia, always used to brag about how amazing the Scalloped Corn from his hometown was. In an effort to make him something special, I decided to cobble together this recipe, using fresh corn, aged Gouda, and some jalapeño and cayenne to give it an Indian edge. Grating corn on a box grater extracts the sweet and vibrantly yellow corn milk. It is the “secret ingredient” to Scalloped Corn that will make any Southerner proud.

6 ears of corn, husked

1 cup cream

1/2 cup milk

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 jalapeño (seeded and veined if you prefer a milder flavor) finely chopped (optional)

1/2 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

2/3 pound aged Gouda, grated

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup dry breadcrumbs or panko Japanese breadcrumbs

1/4 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

 

Heat your oven to 400°F. Place a box grater in a large, wide bowl and grate three ears of corn on the large-hole side, making sure that all of the corn’s juices go in the bowl. Slice away the kernels from the remaining 3 ears and add them to the bowl with the corn milk. Mix the cream and milk in a liquid measuring cup and set aside.

 

Place 2 tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan along with the jalapeños (if using), peppercorns and red pepper flakes (if using) and cook over medium-high heat until the butter is melted and the jalapeños are slightly soft, about 1 1/2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, whisk in the flour and cook for another minute. Drizzle in a couple of tablespoons of milk and whisk in. Repeat, whisking in a few tablespoons of milk at a time, until the flour paste is somewhat loose, and then add the remaining milk, whisking until smooth. Turn off the heat and whisk in the eggs. Stir in 1 cup of grated cheese and the salt, stirring until the cheese is melted. Pour the sauce over the corn.

 

Combine the remaining cheese with 1/4 cup of breadcrumbs and the cracked peppercorns in a small bowl and set aside. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1/2 cup of breadcrumbs and toast until deep brown, about 2 to 5 minutes, stirring often so they don’t burn. Stir the toasted breadcrumbs into the corn mixture and transfer it to a large gratin or casserole dish. Top with an even layer of the breadcrumb-cheese mixture and bake until it is browned and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Serve while hot.

Cardamom Roasted Cauliflower

Serves 8

Coarse kosher salt, or even Maldon sea salt, adds a lovely crunch to this otherwise creamy and yielding Roasted Cauliflower.

 

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for greasing baking dish

3 cardamom pods

3 dried red chiles (optional)

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole peppercorns

2 1/2 to 3-pound head cauliflower, cored and broken into medium florets

1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced

Kosher salt for sprinkling

 

Heat your oven to 425°F. Grease a baking dish with some of the olive oil and set aside.

 

Grind the cardamom, chiles, coriander, cumin and peppercorns in a coffee grinder or small food processor until fine. Mix the spices with the oil in a large bowl. Add the cauliflower and onions and toss to coat. Transfer the vegetables to a baking dish and roast until they’re tender, about 1 hour, stirring every 20 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and serve.

Butternut Squash, Apple, and Cranberry Gratin

Serves 6 

We have squash in spades throughout the winter months and I’m always looking for new ways with it. I never thought about serving it with sweet apples and sweet-tart cranberries, but after trying a version prepared by the chefs at Yale during a dinner celebrating Indian food, I was hooked on the balance between creamy and chewy, sweet and spicy. It is a beautiful holiday side dish that I now prepare throughout the season. Most supermarkets sell squash already chopped into pieces. This is a great time saver since all of the peeling, seeding, and chopping is already done for you.

 

8 tablespoons/120 g unsalted butter, melted, plus 1 tablespoon/15 g at room temperature

3-pound/1.3 k butternut squash, peeled, halved, seeded, and diced into 1-inch/2.5 cm cubes

3 sweet-tart apples that will keep their shape after baking (see page 00 for varieties), peeled, cored, and diced into 1/2-inch/1.25 cm cubes

1 1/3 cup/160 g dried cranberries

1/4 cup/4 g finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 heaping cup/140 g all-purpose flour

 

Preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C (Gas Mark 4). Grease a baking dish with the softened butter and set aside.

 

In a large bowl, toss together the squash, apples, cranberries, parsley, thyme, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Drizzle in the melted butter and stir to combine, then add the flour and mix to evenly coat the squash mixture.

 

Turn the mixture into the prepared baking dish and bake until the top is golden brown and the squash is tender but not mushy (a paring knife should easily slip into the center of a piece of squash), 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool 5 minutes before serving.

Cranberry Chutney 

In the Himalayan state of Himachal Pradesh, fruits are used in a variety of savory preparations. Whenever I make fruit chutneys, I always think of the dishes that I’ve eaten in the region like Himachal Pradesh and Kashmir. I was first enchanted by Mother Burd’s cranberry salad at Thanksgiving. The fresh flavors are so pure and sweet that you may never make a traditional cranberry sauce again. Dried fruits lend a nice texture while pineapple offers a lovely tanginess.

 

1 bag fresh or frozen cranberries

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and quartered

3 blood oranges or navel oranges, quartered and any seeds removed

1 pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into large chunks

1 cup sugar

1 cup chopped pecans

1/2 cup dried strawberries

1/4 cup dried cherries

1/4 cup dried cranberries

 

Place all of the ingredients into a food processor (if your food processor is not large enough to hold all of the ingredients, then make the chutney in two batches) and pulse to combine a few times until everything is very finely chopped. Refrigerate overnight and serve the next day. Cranberry Chutney can be made up to two days in advance.

 

Comments

[Ellen]

Suvir, I've made most of these! I haven't made the balsamic onions or the scalloped corn yet, but give me time and I will.

I made the gratin and the cranberry chutney for Thanksgiving dinner this year, and both were HUGE hits. We all loved the sweetness/tartness of the chutney--the flavors meld together so seamlessly! I loved the sweetness of the dried cranberries in the gratin (even though I ignorantly used the wrong kind of squash--just discovered that today). I can guarantee that both of these dishes will become tradition at our Thanksgiving table.

It's so amazing to me that even though I never used to willingly eat vegetables, I'm finding that I love your vegetable dishes most of all. I don't miss or crave meat and can go many days before I realize I haven't had any.

Thanks for posting these! Everyone who comes to your blog is in for a great treat!