Joyce Goldstein (photographed here with her grandson Adam), author of Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of One-Plate Salad Meals and Mix-and-Match Dressings, is a household name in most food-loving homes around the globe. Hers is a name that brings out big smiles from her loyal fans. She is respected and passionately loved by most all who have met her, heard her speak and learned from her. And even those who are guarded about publicly supporting a fellow food professional (how sad!), find a way of saying at least something good about Joyce. But luckily for the rest of us, Joyce is a class act, who knows who she is. And to enrich us beyond what she has already done through her food, she is now sharing with us, her families simple, old-fashioned way of keeping in touch, sharing, loving and living fully.
On this 28th day of September, as I use my iPhone to take these blurry photos, I find myself in the midst of many awestruck spectators, watching a moving grandson-grandma show, being staged at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) at Greystone, Napa Valley.
We are all here for the Healthy Kitchens, Healthy Lives Conference presented by Harvard Medical School Osher Institute and the Culinary Institute of America.
This session is one Joyce is co-hosting with her grandson Adam, who has a distinct, articulate voice—sure and confident. To Joyce, cooking is fun, and she will not allow any recipe to create fuss that will keep her from enjoying herself. She is always happy, always excited, and never tired around food.
The attendees mostly all physicians, are attending this semi-annual gathering that is bridging nutrition science, healthcare and the culinary arts. These are professionals that take life seriously, certainly have fun as they do so, but are not people one expects to find in places where words come casually. There is a certain gravitas associated with conferences they attend.
This afternoon, Joyce and Adam regaled us all with their connection with one another, and most of all, with their commitment to eating well, living fully, and sharing without any evident forced effort. How wonderful that is!
At one point during the demo, Joyce blurts out "Cooking is fun." And Adam confirms through many comments that he is equally at ease cooking and around Grandma. When asked by someone in the audience about what their cooking philosophy is, he says "we make what is available, right now." The mantra of local, seasonal and fresh, seems to be ingrained in his DNA. He speaks fondly of his father, who is not in attendance, and says his mother is the one who makes his daily serving of scrambled eggs. But goes on further to say that whilst his father loves to cook, and cooks very well, his mother makes great eggs, and will not take credit for that. She is happy to allow the father to play the role of the resident culinary genius. It is evident though, that Joyce is the culinary diva of this extended family. In her presence, Adam finds ease, confidence and poise, that is not always amply seen in one his age. He is, after all, only 11.
In a time when families do not eat together for the most part, when doctors are scrambling to get a control on the exaggarated rise of obesity in our nation (children and adults alike), Joyce and Adam are showing us how easy it really is to cook and enjoy. In minutes, Adam and Joyce, have plucked basil leaves off their stems (tender small-difficult-to-pull ones too!), placed them into a food processor, added pine nuts (not toasted Joyce tells us, no need, since we will add it to host pasta, or use perhaps in another hot application) and then Adam runs the processor and through its opening, squeezes a substantial amount of good olive oil from a bottle, until the basil and nuts start moving freely.
At this point, they stop, scrape the sides, add very little cheese (Adam suggests to grandma that she add some parmigiano, since she is willing to go either way, noting that it is smart to not add cheese now, since one can then store the pesto, even freeze it, and use it for more applications) and even lesser amount of salt. They run the processor for a couple of more seconds, and end with what looks to be a beautiful pesto. Whilst they were making it, penne pasta was already boiling away, cooking to perfection. As it gets done, they pour some pasta liquid into the pesto, stir it up, to slowly bring heat into the beautifully green pesto (Joyce and Adam share with us the need to do this, to ensure the green color does not get scalded and turn black), before adding it to the pasta. They toss it and cover and set aside.
Next they make a beautiful delicately flavored couscous with orange zest, fruits and toasted nuts. It seems evident that Adam has done this many times before. From zesting to forking the finished rested couscous, he is adept at handling this recipe. Grandma,too, is relaxed about him holding his own. Next they make a quick stir-fry, this one with shrimp and snow peas. Again, it is apparent that he knows how to trim these peas and can do it quickly. The shrimp are marinating with some pepper and cornstarch, as Joyce and Adam prepare some ginger and garlic.
Adam loves to smash garlic, and has no fear around using a big cleaver to do so. He says cooking stir-fries with his father is one of his favorite things to do in the kitchen. And he also loves making pastas. We are told that the minisicule amount of cornstarch thrown into the shrimp thickens the sauce in the wok. Within minutes the entire class is smelling of wonderful ginger, garlic, the perfume of vinegar and the sweet smell of shrimp. The class finds Adam and Grandma tasting these dishes one last time, before Adam and Chef Lars place them onto tasting plates, for all of us to taste. Joyce tells him to "take a clean spoon, so they think we are well brought up", and as you can see, they end with big beautiful smiles on their faces, pleased with their creations.
Cooking is fun, and we have all enjoyed it as such. Joyce and Adam have made it seem effortless, and have cooked quickly and surely, with smiles on their faces, portions that can easily feed 12. They tell us about how they end meals with a cheese course. Cheeses from around the world, found at the farmers market and at specialty stores.
We also learn that Adam drinks tea in the morning. That he thinks he has "as Asian palate", and that he is known to add Garam Masala into the aïoli he uses to make his turkey sandwiches, and that he has grown up making preserves with Joyce. Just last weekend, they made 36 jars of apricot jam. Joyce smirks that "child labor is good," and tells us that it is easy to get children to eat well, enjoy real food, and find joy in the kitchen. She also suggest that it takes us respecting them, allowing them to get down and dirty in the kitchen, at the table, finding a freedom to be themselves, exploring and enjoying at the same time. She also says that if you want someone to find comfort in eating something new, one ought to cook it with them. Watching Adam identify ginger and other spices by smell, we know that Adam has been well trained by grandma Joyce and his parents. In the photograph here, you can see him looking proud as he goes to greet his mother.
This is a young man who has been raised clearly with freedom, with respect and around people who respect his opinion. Joyce tells us to make an effort to work with young kids, and she says they often are right-on with their tastes. She is happy to use them as tasters. And finds great feedback from Adam and his sister. Cooking is a joy for Adam and Joyce. And it can be for you as well. Cook at home, cook without fear, cook happily and sharing it with loved ones, especially young kids, and you will find great new discoveries in your kitchen, some being shared with you through the sheer genius and hardwork of your kids or grandkids. As we sampled the lovely dishes prepared by Adam and Joyce, not only did we find ourselves eating some wonderful pesto pasta, couscous and shrimp stir-fry, but we also found ourselves hoping we could all collectively change our wonderful country overnight, and bring this great familial sharing of homemade culinary wealth into all homes around the world.
Perfect timing, Suvir. You would be so proud of our grandson, Logan. He's 4-and-a-half, and on Friday night, I started a shiitake risotto (with duck glace, blood orange oil zest, shallots, chardonnay, and some vegetable stock). Logan took over after the first round, and completed the risotto by himself, adding the stock and stirring constantly. He then put shelled English peas in a small pan and steamed them, and we grated fresh parm on the risotto and served it.
All the while, standing on a kitchen chair. He tells people he's a chef. So much fun!
Posted by: Tana | Sunday, September 28, 2008 at 02:59 PM
Thanks for posting this Suvir, great story. I think one of the reasons I still love to cook is because I started at a young age. I envy this youngster for having such a talented grandma to learn from. he's going to be a killer chef some day.
Posted by: Curtis | Friday, October 03, 2008 at 11:38 AM
Thanks for sharing the risotto recipe from Logan. He is a chef and a good one at that it seems!
Curtis, thanks for sharing your thoughts. And yes, I agree that Adam is a very lucky young man, to have Joyce as a grandma, and to be able to learn from her, watch her, chat with her, question her and cook with her.
Hope you are well. WHat plans about visiting North Country?
Posted by: Suvir | Friday, October 10, 2008 at 01:33 AM
I am so glad that I run into your blog! Its great to see your work and your farm. I wish I could come visit : ).
When I first saw your post I thought you combined bitter melon and egg in the egg and "kerala" dish : ) lol!
Enjoy the fall. I am sure its amazing there this time of the year.
Posted by: hafiz. | Saturday, October 11, 2008 at 08:27 AM
Hafiz, thanks for stopping by. Where are you based? where is home? You can always come visit.
Fall is beautiful around the farm. It is already getting cooler though. Charlie tells me that it is cold now and soon, it will be very cold. Such is life in North Country.
Keep well and in touch. You can always email me, and we can see how we can make your wish to come visit our farm come true.
Best,
Suvir
Posted by: Suvir | Sunday, October 12, 2008 at 02:43 AM
Hi there. I am based in Princeton. Loved the pictures of the animals. Looking forward to reading more of your adventure at the farm. Take care -
Posted by: hafiz. | Sunday, October 12, 2008 at 02:16 PM