Mana Itoh and her husband Tomohiro Furuta have a wonderful pastry shop a stones throw from the Yamazaki train station, a short trip from downtown Kyoto. We were at the Yamazaki train station for a very different reason. We had eaten a hearty and amazing breakfast. Sated our sweet tooths with wonderful (brilliant really) French toast prepared by Shaun Keenan at Hyatt Regency Kyoto. And still, the discovery of Etretat and the treats within, made us hungry, happy and sad, all at once.
Nothing about Yamazaki is out of the ordinary, for ordinary Japanese. It is just another small town. Another train stop. Hardly like Normandy, even though the name of the pastry shop, Etretat, may have you make that association (though it has hills, but I saw no beach, anywhere close by). But Yamazaki shall live in our memories, and our hearts for a long time. It has left us with a bittersweet memory.
The town is quiet. Seems far from booming. You see no signs of any thriving businesses. Not at least till you get to the one we were making our way to. And yet, everything is in order. The town is clean. Better than clean really. People are happy. The taxis shining and majestic. Or seem so because they are maintained with pride. When I arrive into small towns across America, it is a struggle for me to get into a cab, let alone enjoy the ride. Smoke-ridden cars, being driven by drivers choking on their own cigarette fumes, causing me to get asthma. And then the filth and muck from lack of cleaning and detailing within the car, and the dust on the outside. But here, the cars are polished, the drivers wearing ironed suits, white shiny gloves, and big smiles. No smells in these cars. Drivers who smoke, get out of the car and do so. Door open automatically, enabling you to never feel you have to make an effort. They close on their own too. Open sewers run through the sides of the small roads. They are clean and free of odor and muck. I am told the same is true in the summer as well. Men sitting and standing around an old metal stove burning wood chips and coal to keep themselves warm in the cold of the winter, al fresco. Yet finding the ability to smile and be happy. So quaint, so last century, so third-world, but far from dirty or sad. Move over to small-town-USA and you see an entirely different picture. You find towns that are in disrepair, people who are angry and rightly so because of poverty of all sorts of resources. The energy in the air is of distraught, misery and fear. Hardly anything to blame the people for, but certainly a statement on the society and governance, and the role it plays or not as the case might be.
The sidewalk was used to grow decorative and edible plants. Everything neatly trimmed. It showed that at least the citizenry are able to show a sense of pride in the world they inhabit outside the confines of their own home. They are civic-minded, that the neighborhood is not at a loss, even if they might be personally. The economy is certainly down in Japan, but the neighborhood, even in this very small town, did not show any signs to us, the tourists walking its streets. A Japanese friend said to Charlie and I in Tokyo, that sometimes order leads to civility even from people who would otherwise not have any, or who might be messy inside their own home. It rang a bell. It stirred a chord within my head. How true he was. How could anyone litter streets this clean? This charming and sweet. You would feel like a criminal of the worst order, for disturbing the peaceful order. An order that seems to have existed forever. WOW!
And so, finding this pastry shop at the lobby level of what seemed to be a very quaint and VERY small hotel was a surprise, but not really. We were surprised though once we set foot inside. There were fantastically tasty and beautifully prepared confections. Made by a husband and wife team. Alone. Without help from anyone else. Tucked away in a small town outside of Kyoto, a mid-sized city in Japan, we found ourselves feeling like we were in an august brasserie in Paris, or a sophisticated small town in France. So many seas and oceans away from France, these chefs and the citizens of this town, were enjoying pastries and savories, that they have only recently come to know. But what was most amazing was the quick turn around that the shop had. Within a couple of hours, everything we saw as we arrived in Yamazaki, had been sold, and as we were leaving, and we paid another visit before catching our train back, we found an entirely new set of treats. This was exciting to see, invigorating, magical and sad, all at once. It made Lee Anne Wong, Charlie and I, question why we had to deal with chains selling far-from-inspired pastries and why we accepted these chains. What was wrong with us that living SOOO much closer to France and Europe, we accepted such bad offerings of food? What is it that has corrupted our minds into believing that which we eat is good? How can we ever eat croissants as we find them in most bakeries littered across America? Of course we also have Mrs. London's in Saratoga Springs, NY, but that is a rare discovery, and perhaps one of the few such temples of high-pastry anywhere in the US, let alone a small-small town.
As you can see above, the offerings are plenty, and nicely and casually presented. Very little fuss. This is no Starbucks, and they are not wanting to be that. This was one of only 2 or 3 business we saw in our walk through the town. The couple are happy to give residents something plain and real. Honest and beautiful. And it seems the residents are grateful for that.
The kitchen was very well organized, very very clean, nicely ventilated, and a place of pride for the couple. They were not hesitant in the least to show us their kitchen. Even with the language barrier, they understood our desire to celebrate their work space. The chefs had proudly displayed certificates they had received after completing training at schools of culinary education overseas. French ones for Mana, and CIA - Greystone for the Tomohiro (he spent a short period training with the pastry chefs there). I was thrilled to find the signature of two people I respect a great deal on the certificate you see Tomohiro holding with me in the photograph above. It has signatures of Greg Drescher and Robert Jorin. Two men I hold in very high esteem, both at the Greystone, CA branch of the CIA. They would have been so proud to taste the beautiful food associated with their training. The couple seem grateful for our patronage, and I know the three of us were not alone in being very grateful to them for their talents and their investment in food so beautifully prepared.
The closer images of the offerings should show you that the couple work hard, and with great love for their craft and creations. It is evident in how beautiful things look in simplicity, or even when decorated. What is even more fascinating are the signs in Japanese and French. "Island Culture", "Island Mentality", "Island People", "Xenophobes" were some of the gross generalizations I had heard from people before we departed for Japan. And this one little shop, was everything but. It was a celebration of things foreign, shared in a town so very small and quaint. What is it that has made us Americans so jingoistic and small minded? Why? Do we really think the world is still separated by geographical borders? What century do we really live in? If this couple, living in such a remote town, in Japan, can celebrate the West through its baked goods, and with such care and sophistry, why can we not do it within our shores? Where have we failed? We would eat so much better if we had small shops like these dotting our landscape. I live in small town America, and I know I am not alone in wanting change. But I also know, I am VERY alone in being a VOCAL and LOUD voice wanting to see change happen. Too many of us have been brainwashed into believing we should not question things publicly, and so, we may speak to our spouses or immediate family about what we see as the failures within our society, but are seldom if ever smart or bold enough to do so publicly in places where change out to be discussed and spoken about. How fascinating it was for me to eat these goodies, revel in their deliciousness, as they transported me into the inspiring rooms of the CIA in Greystone, where I myself have come of age. Learning from the faculty and administrators about food and life. Learning that food today is a global celebration. Learning also how small bites of delicious food, prepared with care, with honest and good ingredients, can give far greater pleasure and satiety than foods we consume in great quantities, that are prepared with mediocre to bad ingredients, with mindless execution, only to feed, but never to sate the mind, body and soul in addition to the stomach and appetite. I was thrilled that so many seas away, in this small town, there is a couple adding small bites of tasty pleasures to the lives of their neighbors. It was thus no shock to me that a female customer at least my mothers age, treated me to a spicy sausage pastry, that I was waiting on line behind her to buy. She saw that I had already bought TONS of stuff, and somehow, something triggered in her head, a desire to pay for that one pastry I was getting in addition. I then decided to buy a package of cookies for her, but she communicated through gestures that she had plenty of her own, and that she wanted to spoil me. And gave me a big smile that made me think at least, that she was delighted to see us foreigners respecting and celebrating this jewel that enriches the life of her community.
Chef Lee Anne Wong, the couple, and I were thrilled to have met one another. Mana spoke some french, and so Charlie was able to communicate a little bit. Tomohiro spoke with a beautiful big smile. Lee Anne and I were besides ourselves in having found this amazing little shop in this small town. As the train departed Yamazaki for Kyoto, I know I was in tears of happiness, and also of sadness. As in my mind, I was thrilled with this discovery, but also sad that so many young fertile minds of my community in North Country, NY and small towns all over the US, are being deprived of such beautiful food. Charlie, Lee Anne and I considered this discovery one of the best moments of our time together in Japan. And we have two amazing Japanese people, a small town that supports their dreams and efforts, and the schools that have trained them to do the right thing, to thank for this.
Boulangerie Artisanale Etretat
4-5 Koaza-nishitani Aza-oyamazaki
Oyamazaki-cho Otokuni-gun Kyoto, 618-0071
Tel/Fax 075-951-7078
And here we were, coming out of the train from Kyoto, headed to Suntory, to see how the amazing single malt whiskies they make are distilled.
The pain aux raisins has my mouth watering. And you are right - why can't we have a shop like this in rural upstate NY? Honestly, I would rather eat here than at the fancy dessert bar you wrote about in your previous post. Thanks for being so prolific these days!
Posted by: Sally | Friday, February 26, 2010 at 05:48 PM
there are little stores like this here and there in the US but hard to find just anywhere..even on the Upper West side of manhattan. what you show here looks like a generic japanese bread store. Japan used to be more a "socialist" country so there is more equality and as a homogenous country racially, don't have "bad neighborhoods" - taxes are high and wealth is redistributed and the government spends money on keeping infrastructure up to par and people have respect for their small environment. its buddhism, confuscionism and shintoism - respect for nature and surroundings.
anyhow, we try here in the US too to have good food and i think there is more of it on the west coast - just "big business" has taken over our foods.
Posted by: May | Friday, February 26, 2010 at 09:58 PM
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Posted by: Jordan 8 | Monday, August 02, 2010 at 11:13 PM
This is exactly the kind of shop I would love to have.
To quote you, "The couple are happy to give residents something plain and real. Honest and beautiful."
My philosophy 100% in regards to Patisserie/Boulangerie.
A beautiful and inspiring post. Merci Monsieur.
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Thursday, August 05, 2010 at 01:38 AM
I also meant to mention my return to La Farine in the Rockridge section of Oakland,CA. Still as magical as the first time I stepped in that shop (with my mentor Don Eryck - RIP) 33 years ago. This is the bakery that introduced the world to the magic of making the "Morning Bun" with croissant dough. A treat that many bakers have copied since and honored Jacqueline - the first owner of La Farine who created this masterpiece.
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Thursday, August 05, 2010 at 01:49 AM