As soon as we walked in, and even before Shinji and Charlie were settled into their seats, I proclaimed that these would be great gyozas. Why? It was the face, concentration and the energy of the lady making the gyozas that told me that. In the above photograph, you see her somewhat distracted, and that was as distracted as she got, in the couple of hours we spent eating gyozas and some other goodies.
Our friend Sally Longo makes amazing fresh dough, and it was her great homemade dumplings that gave me the desire to try making them myself. At Kaduya, in Tokyo, they take their dumplings very seriously. Filled with seasoned pork, they come steamed or pan fried, and also as wontons in soup (ramen).
Fresh dough is the secret behind these great gyoza. Unlike what we ate in Kyoto, made with frozen wrappers, these are made with fresh round dumpling skins, delicately filled, and generously at that, and sealed carefully. None of the dumplings broke, they were all light, chewy and crisp. We ate 36 dumplings between the three of us, and I could have kept going on.
From the cast iron pan, they went onto the plate. The cooks were using plain water to steam the dumplings.
No sooner had we sat down, cabbage and celery pickles showed up at our table. Ice water was on the table already.
Menus and condiments sit at each table. Clean as can be. Chile-Sesame oil, shoyu, a garlic infused shoyu just for gyoza and some white and black pepper powder, and a chile paste are part of the array of condiments offered.
The chef of Kaduya could not have been more interested in sharing his food with us. He also offered to show us around, but sadly, we were too busy eating, and by the time we were ready to look around, he had left. Our loss. But we will remember his food for a long time. The other cooks, who are featured above with a photograph each, cook and bus at the same time. Of course the presence of two women chefs changed all our experience. There is some comfort you get, when eating in knowing that a woman has been involved in that experience. At least for me. Women add a certain spice that men cannot. It was a blessing to see not one but two working.
Jam Ro Han, the rice with ground meat and dark miso, was amazingly tasty. Charlie had inhaled it even before I could beg a second taste. Cilantro was the garnish on it with some pickled ginger.
Shinji Nohara, our GPS-on-feet-companion/navigator in Tokyo, ordered these noodles, after Charlie and I quizzed him about them. They were like the rice, noodles, with a meat and miso mix atop them. In the case of the noodles, they came with a bowl of soup with spring onions in them. DEEELICIOUS! I had three tastes, and could have finished them all by myself. Think of a nice meaty ragu, cooked with care and slowly, and then add shoyu and remove tomatoes, and what you have is this wondrous, salty, savory, rich, silky, tenderly-chewy sauce atop the noodles. It seems like cilantro was the garnish of choice here and I was all too happy for that. I believe the noodles are called TanTanMen, which describes special wheat noodles, prepared in this manner.
After the Ramen in Osaka, which was tasty, but no match to Hiroko's ramen prepared in our home, this was a wonderful bowl of ramen to discover. Tasty, spicy too (Shinji ordered a special kind), and with juicy tender small-but-full-of-meat wontons, that gave it even more of a sexy personality than the cilantro and the meat underneath the cilantro that was full and bursting with flavor. The broth had amazing flavor. Is cooked for two days. The noodles just right in texture. The cilantro a wonderful bite of freshness. The chef uses dashi, chicken broth and vegetable broth for the soupy base of the ramen. Sliced pork, roasted pork, bamboo shoot and cilantro add more layers of flavor. Our version came with a sesame paste based miso in which ground meat had been dressed. I wish everyone has a Shinji with them when they travel. He is a wonderful fellow-explorer, but the blessing is that he already has explored, has done his homework, and makes you feel you are discovering, what you want to, but all along, he guides you in his very cool and clam manner, making you turn, back track or change tracks, without you ever feeling you are being steered.
The gyoza were delicious. There is no doubt about that. We inhaled the Yude (steamed dumplings) so fast, that I was unable to take photographs of them. They too were very tasty. These Yaki Gyoza (fried dumplings) and Yude changed our opinions about Gyoza/Dumplings in Japan. We are still in shock how bad the gyozas were in Kyoto, at both the places. But these, could hardly have been better. Nicely crisp on the bottom. The skin just thick enough to be worthy of wrapping the meat. Not the think skin that was breaking apart in Kyoto and was screaming frozen and machine made. The meat was just pork, with some leeks and of course I am sure MSG and salt and some pepper. The dipping sauces Shinji made for us were beautifully balanced in their sweet, sour, salty and yummy quotient. He loves chiles, and so do we, so we were absolutely in gyoza heaven together. If you are in Japan long enough, and are craving something different from the usual, make a trip to Kaduya. It is a charming simple out of the way eatery, that makes great ramen, gyoza, rice and noodles. A place where you will find happy kids, elders, hipsters, young people and good simple and honest food. What more can one ask for?
And above our photographs of some of the customers, the counter, kitchen, doorway, storefront and what seems to be the menu. Kaduya is in a location a little out of touristey Tokyo, but make an effort and you will find in your hands, cupped a beautifully tasty bowl of ramen and some amazing gyoza on a plate.
3-6-1 Shimo-Meguro
Meguro-ku
Tokyo
Japan
Tel: 81 3 3716 2071
Wow. Those perfectly golden brown dumplings look amazing! They will inspire me to play with my recipe further. I can tell her dough is drier than the one I make, and that makes it easier to shape each dumpling so uniformly. Mine are more about great taste than perfection of shape, but now I know both things can co-exist. Thanks for the inspiration!
Posted by: Sally | Monday, February 22, 2010 at 11:11 AM
Suvir:
Thank you so much for the photos and commentary. What a wonderful way to relive my own memories from my time in Japan. You know, I lived in Utsunomiya (うつのみあや)which is the gyoza capital of Japan. Apparently Japanese soldiers brought the recipe back from China after the second World War. We had over 30 different restaurants in my city and I used to go weekly to a spot that offered the gyoza from these different restaurants. I loved vinegar, hot sesame and soy dipping sauce we'd have with them. When I returned from Japan, a good friend (from Japan) in New Jersey helped me make them.
Tell me, did you get to try kinpura gobu while there? It is a tasty burdock root, carrot dish that I came to love with an unparalleled passion. I'll send you the recipe if you want. Also the savory egg custard is wonderfully subtle. So glad you enjoyed Japan.
Posted by: Matt | Tuesday, February 23, 2010 at 02:20 PM
I am so glad you found a "true" gyoza and ramen place. its my favorite thing - first meal off the plane - go to "Keika Ramen" in Shinjuku (i love kyushu style ramen with the two blocks of kurobuta (black pork) and cabbage) and a trip to the department store basement to get some good plump gyoza. the one in kyoto was made for geishas and kyoto is not renowned for street food - more kaiseki/refined food.. can you see them burping/smelling like garlic? i can't imagine it was good at all.
the tan tan men looks amazing.
i believe there is "tobanjan" paste in there that was making things taste addictive. (spicy chili miso)
I still don't know how you have not fallen over from over eating.
But i'm enjoying your blog!
Posted by: May | Friday, February 26, 2010 at 10:22 PM
Matt, glad you had a little walk back into memory lane.
I always remember you talking so fondly of your time there.
And of course your sister-in-law is Japanese, and the nieces and nephews, have Japanese blood too.
How fortunate they are to have this in their DNA.
Japan is a fascinating study.
Even if somewhat difficult for those that are idiots like me, and do not speak Japanese. Shame on me!
May, I have gained 8 pounds. But it has been well worth it.
And yes, we have eaten WAY too much for any human being. But at least we can say we got to sample a lot of Japanese food. And at so many varied places and cities.
The tan tan men was amazing. And Shinji and Charlie could hardly bother to share. But I was shameless enough to demand and steal.
The basements of the department stores, were terrific, even if VERY crowded. And both Charlie and I are NOT big fans of department stores to begin with. We were most shocked to see how Takashimaya in Japan is like Macy's or Bloomingdales. And here in NYC, it is quite the high temple of good taste and lavish refined wares.
Thanks for following the blog. Are you cooking at all? What are you cooking these days?
Posted by: Suvir | Friday, February 26, 2010 at 11:21 PM
Hi Saran - welcome back! I was able to live vicariously through your travels. what a great trip!
I'm a working mom so making food that can be frozen/defrosted/eaten over two days is the priority so cooking meals is typically for hobby/entertainment. We eat out alot instead as we are able to do that here - in NYC went to Dovetail for Valentine's and Avoce for birthday but those meals came and went - I think i'm spoiled and like comfort food more.. I must say, eating your quesedillas and lamb is my favorite thing to do even though i am so spoiled with these nice restaurants. I learned of your hemant lamb at one of my indian friends' parents party - they serve it every year at their christmas party where ny's top indian finance executives meet. its a staple - their all you can eat sushi bar (from sushi den) and your lamb chops.
I believe i mentioned I made your fried flounder with the tamarind chutney (very tasty) and the manchurian cauliflower with the super easy ketchup sauce that had my indian friends in shock that is what they love to eat so much at your restaurant when i told them that the secret sauce is ketchup and yesterday i added cumin to the guacomole for my fish tacos (like you recommend). I have a picture of my son eating your food but unfortunately having trouble loading it onto the computer. and the tomato chutney really was addictive. the little potato balls were 'ok' and i didn't have much luck with the besan pancakes but your middle eastern omelette and your pepper dip were a hit at my parties. the fig flan too rich but amazing (if you have ideas on how to make it less rich, would be welcome)
and we all love your brussel sprouts for thanksgiving. its our family favorite now (although I haven't figured out how to keep it "crispy") and i always make it in addition to our miso citrus rubbed rosemary turkey and orange and beet salad.
anyhow, what i love the most is once i stock my fridge with items you cook with, i seem to be able to make many of your recipes.
if you have ideas for "how to eat fast" on a weeknight, love to learn those techniques. crock pot techniques and make ahead ideas and 'what freezes well'
best regards,
please keep blogging - its a nice respite after a hectic week working hard and feeding my family..
please point me to other dishes i should be cooking or places i should go try out in NYC..i have no time to research - i go to places people tell me to go.
may
Posted by: May | Saturday, March 06, 2010 at 07:57 AM
Hi,
If anybody has a decent recipe for Kyushu gyoza no mi or for gyoza in general please email me with the recipe.
To me, Kyushu (Fukuoka) gyoza is the best due to dough thickness but more important is the mixture itself.
I know this.
Ground pork
Cabbage
Garlic
Green onions
Chives
Grated fresh ginger
Salt
A wee bit of goma abura
What I need to know is proportions OR your own recipe. Whatever you have is fine.
Please email me:
[email protected]
Kind regards,
Pete
Posted by: Pete Bolte | Monday, March 15, 2010 at 06:09 PM
Hey Suvir:
I am mostly cooking from your cookbook for my vegetarian friends here in Turkey, but I've tried some other things as well. A teacher friend of mine makes her own preserved lemon, so I tried making a chicken tagine that turned out quite nice! One of my colleagues in the English department, Duygu, is a great cook, so I am hoping she will share some of her Turkish recipes with me soon.
Off to attend a student film festival in Geneva next weekend and hoping to have some great meals there as well.
Has spring arrived in Salem, New York yet?
Matty
Posted by: Matt | Saturday, March 20, 2010 at 04:27 PM