Frank and Jessica Vollkommer are the owners and chefs behind the The Chocolate Mill in Glens Falls, NY. With their wondrous, delicious, well-balanced-sweet-bitter-and-sometimes-sour creations, it seems to me that Glens Falls might be ripe for a food renaissance. Thanks Frank and Jessica for this gift to our community.
The entrance into The Chocolate Mill, may not be the most compellingly provocative one you will make into a fine-shrine to good food. But do not let that fool you. In the modesty of spirit, lies the very deep rooted respect for tradition, talent and quality. Nothing to scoff at anywhere. And especially in this day and age in America, and especially in Small-Town-USA. Well some have called Glens Falls the quintessential Home-Town in the US. Not sure there is much difference between Small-Town or Home-Town. Those are semantics. As important as they are geographically, I believe they do not change much of the harshness of the reality of life in such towns. But when you think semantically about food, you can rest assured, that at The Chocolate Mill, you will find food that has been created after great consideration to recipe, purpose, quality, seasonality and the whims of the creators. As hokey or contrived as the menus posted on the wall (photographed above at the entrance) may seem, they should quickly tell you something about the proprietors. They are artists. They are creators. Imagineers if you will. It is their job, and lucky for us that they think this way, to do things with a certain elan, a certain style, a certain difference from the mundane, meandering away from the usual. If they were not this way, we would not have the beginnings of change in this Small-Town or Home-Town.
Mea Culpa! I have been sleeping, I have been remiss. Can I say it any more honestly? With shame, I must accept full blame for not being at The Chocolate Mill earlier. Now I feel great guilt. But am thrilled to know they made it through the tough and rough winter of North Country, where fine establishments, often find no support from locals that are not even remotely adventurous. Saori Kawano, a dear friend and businesswoman extraordinaire was visiting us a couple of weeks ago. The train into Fort Edwards did not arrive till close to 1 PM. What to do for lunch? Saori had left the city at 8 AM. Somehow, something triggered TCM in our heads, and so, we found ourselves, at the door of this narrow eatery in Glens Falls. Saori proclaimed at entering that this sweet cafe/chocolatier was a clone to some such establishment on Madison Avenue. You can see how happy Saori is to be with Frank at her side. This was her second visit in less than 10 days to TCM. This second time, she came to buy chocolates from here and take them back to friends in Manhattan. WOW! Was I dreaming this? Saori has also said that it is her hope that she can be back in October or November, to bring back some of these wondrous creations to her mother in Japan, who is a Francophile, speaks French and loves French food thoroughly. Why am I meandering into sharing the Saori-Story? Because, we are not used to such praise from Manhattanites about the offerings our community has. Mrs. London's and Max London's have been the only two other establishments that any visiting guests, chefs, foodies and travelers have ever spoken highly of. Of course there are many small places that do get a nod of approval from time to time, but nothing like the commentary that ensues after a visit to Max London's or Mrs. London's and now The Chocolate Mill.
Hazelnut Framboise - Well when you see things this beautiful in North Country, you are often suspicious, and correctly so, that they have been brought frozen and then thawed and served/sold. But really, can you ever buy something this beautiful frozen? No! You can buy offerings that look close enough, seem good enough, taste good enough, but are NEVER really good. It is this subtle-for-some, but VERY HUGE difference between TCM and any other place at least in Glens Falls, Queensbury, Fort Edwards, and the surrounding towns, that should haunt you as a paying customer. If you can eat here, why would you eat anywhere else? The only place where confections/pastries/baked goods and food can give this place a stiff challenge, is Mrs. London's and Max London's in Saratoga. But that is not a fair comparison to make. TCM is much smaller in size, very new, and still coming of age. Of course, to be able to even create something this beautiful, that also tastes great, you have to have credentials, and credentials run deep in this place. Frank Vollkommer, a son of the area (Saratoga/Schuylerville area, really, but close enough) is one of 13 Certified Master Pastry Chefs that the world has (maybe even 12, as someone told me one of the chefs with this title may have passed away recently).
Passion Bon Bon's are chocolates but not quite like the Godiva chocolates,or other packaged brands you might consider special. These are the real thing. Made by artists with great culinary talents and epic experience. As beautiful as they look, they are brilliant in taste.
Banana Rum Bon Bon's are all banana. I can still remember Sally Longo, our dear and very food savvy friend who happens to be local to Glens Falls, feeling surprised after tasting this bon bon. I believe she did not expect such a banana intensity and texture. The chefs are purists. And it pays to have two talented people in the kitchen. They play off each others desire to compete and outshine the other. The customer lucks out. Gets beautiful tastes with each bite.
Coconut Bon Bon's are beautiful, colorful and far from the white that we expect with anything coconut. Can coconut inspire browns and reds from artists? Do you think? Yes. And naturally so. A perfect coconut has a great inner rind/skin, that is a nice chocolatey brown and sometimes a deep red. The artist that resides inside Frank and Jessica has captured that soul of the coconut just perfectly. It took me a couple of weeks to figure this out. Bravo!
Berry Truffles have a dusting of some amazing electric pink powder, that is at once arresting and also very berry! The taste? Purely berry. Try it, and you shall think twice before putting any truffle in your mouth, that claims to be berry flavored, but is made purely with a bottled flavoring. Come here for honest and pure flavors, not those achieved by purchasing extracts, that are based on chemical approximations.
Raspberry Bon Bon's are as beautiful to look at as any chocolate money can buy. Again, taste is where it is at, and here taste is nothing the chefs are shy about.
If you like your chocolate dark, as those who like real chocolate do, well, now here, in Glens Falls, you can find real chocolate. 74% chocolate is made into truffles and plain chocolates. Both look beautiful, and both give you that flavor of chocolate that should be the very minimum flavor you demand, expect and crave, when thinking chocolate. It is my hope, that within this year, the chefs start making 84% or higher chocolate truffles and bars. I cannot wait for that to happen. But in the meantime, I am happy with 74%.
For those that enjoy coffee with milk, the chefs have for sale Cafe Au Lait Truffles.
Original and Toasted Smores On A Stick offer something classic for both the sweeter chocolate lovers and those crazy like me, that want some contrast to the sweetness of smores and chocolate. The toasted ones have just the perfect balance between sweet and bitter. In fact they are wonderful.
If you like chocolate bark, you can get it in white, milk and dark chocolate. Pistachios, cherries, strawberries and even raisins and other berries are celebrated in these. Affordable and delicious, they make for great presents to take as a hostess gift for a dinner party.
Pecan Butter Crunch and Peanut Brittle are also on sale for those that love nuts and something salty and sweet all at once.
Milk Chocolate Caramel Truffles are garnished with sea salt. Sweet, salty and yummy all at once. They are creamy and with just the perfect amount of bitter from the caramel. To pay attention to our demographics around here, the chocolate and the caramel are not what the die-hard foodies of Paris or Manhattan may find bitter or dark enough, but they are infinitely better than what you will find on shelves even in Manhattan or Paris. Hint to chefs: Can we have a Daaark chocolate and daaaarker caramel version too? Please!!! I am just too greedy, and too jaded. Forgive me and ignore me. Not that I think anyone is listening. But one often strokes ones own ego. Silly me!
For those who love pretzels, you can find chocolate covered ones here. They look as elegant as you can imagine pretzels being. Pretzels are nothing I would eat, unless of course at the Redding Terminal Market in Philadelphia, where I would go out of my way and enjoy the freshly made ones. Otherwise, my life is just fine without them. These look pretty, but to be honest, I did not eat them. I only photographed them. Sorry!
Chocolate covered citrus and apricots are a delight to look at, and equally wonderful in taste. Another great indulgence for oneself, or to bring as a hostess gift.
Coated blueberries and espresso beans add character to the product assortment and also give the customer an opportunity to sneak in a gourmet indulgence into the movie hall.
Malted Milk Balls and Bridge Mix are also for sale. I have not tasted either. Photographing them was fun. Wish I could share more, but that would be disingenuous.
For those of us that are into sour patch kids, or gummi bears or other such fruit-flavor candy, there is hope to graduate to more wondrous fruit flavored edibles. Pate de fruits, made in several flavors, are wonderful and truly fruity. I also must admit the shape the chefs have created, is not ordinary, but in fact in itself something new and special. Just chewy enough, but not too chewy, fruity without being artificially pushing some flavor that approximates a fruit-like flavor, sweet but not cloying. Taking things beyond the ordinary is what they do here. It is true for everything they do. Nothing stops at being good. The envelope is being pushed constantly at this establishment towards achieving greatness.
Apple Streusel Danish
Apricot-Almond Teacake
Pecan Sticky Rolls
Raspberry Crumble Bars
Rugelach
Raspberry Sandwich Cookies
Swedish Cream Puffs
Vanilla Almond Cupcakes
Carrot Cake Cookie
Cheese Filled Danish Pocket
Double Fudge Brownies
Chocolate Eclairs
For those that may want the more familiar, you can see above, the many offerings that are comforting and easy enough for all to enjoy at all times of the day. Some more focused on breakfast, and others may be more tea-time treats, but today, these timings associated with enjoyment of certain goodies, have morphed into nothing really, and so, we have a freedom to eat, whatever we crave, whatever time we want to. At The Chocolate Mill, they offer you that indulgence. Of course, it seems the breakfast goodies seem to go earlier in the day, with some remaining towards the evening, but holding very well. Even classics like the carrot cake, takes on a new incarnation, and becomes a cookie you can eat on the go. A smaller indulgence, sexier too, is it lesser calories? Not sure. But delicious for sure. How delightful it would be for the extended community around Glens Falls to now serve these wonderful classics, just given the correct and much needed face lift at the hands of two very talented chefs for meetings and conferences, where you would otherwise see freezer-to-oven baked goods served on platters. The cost is right, the taste great, and made by hand, made with pride. This is feel-good-food, made with honest care.
Asparagus Portabella Quiche - made with roasted mushrooms and asparagus, it is cooked in a savory parmesan custard that is encased in a flaky buttery crust. The salad is just the perfect side, and a welcome one in our community and most home town/small towns across the US. Salad greens in these areas are often thrown onto plates gratuitously, and without care or thought put into that act. Here they dress the salad in a roasted-shallot vinaigrette.
Crispy Parmesan Polenta - Finally a vegetarian dish, composed and elegant, that I WANT TO EAT in our area. Often what I am given is a sad tragic lump of something. Nothing I can call food. And yet it is made out of edible veggies. Here, the chefs give diners alternatives that sing and dance on the palate. Look chic and sexy on the plate too. How difficult is this to do? Not at all. But somewhere in the history of American cuisine and America coming of age, Americans lost the art of cooking with vegetables, and also the desire to celebrate them. Crispy polenta cakes, asparagus and mushrooms and roasted red plum tomatoes are the mainstay on the plate. A richly flavored but delicate balsamic and red onion dressing brings some sauce to the plate. The textures are all wonderful and brilliant. How could a vegetarian not feel good about their lifestyle and their choice to eat vegetables around such food?
Fennel, Tomato and Onion Pizza - It sounds too good to be true, and sadly, this may have been one of the only dishes at The Chocolate Mill, that did not excite me. The dough is better than some place selling pizza around here. But North Country (Southern VT and Eastern-Upstate NY) is not a place you can find good pizza. Exceptions to the rule? Yes! And I have blogged about it. RUN to Depot 62, and you will eat world class pizza in our community. The dough was too thick, chewy the day we ordered it, and the lack of flavor in the pizza on the whole, was shocking. I must say that part of it could have been the winter fennel and that the thickness of the base, made for shockingly low salt in the pizza for the tongue to savor the flavors. We have also been spoiled by Zoe Francois and Mark Bittman, who came to our rescue after we moved here, and taught us how to make at home, in our kitchen, using our ovens, amazingly tasty, light, crisp, flavorful and simply delicious pizza. And when we lived in NYC, we had the good and bad luck of eating pizza at DiFaras every time we craved great pizza. Bad Luck only because it has ruined us for life. We can either eat pizza there, or resort to enjoying it in no more than a handful of restaurants and at the tables of some fellow inveterate foodie friends, that understand the art of pizza baking and making, where simplicity, thickness of base, and the kinds of cheeses used and the flavoring in the sauce and the amount of sauce used - define the final result. I know the chefs have potential and talents beyond what I could hope for in several lifetimes, and I cannot wait to try their pizza a year from now, and see where they have arrived at that time. I am sure I will be cheering loudly and to critical acclaim about there mastering that art as well. That they cook all these beyond amazing confections and some brilliant savory dishes is plenty for me, and plenty of magic for me to pay obeisance to them with humility and gratitude.
Frank Vollkommer and Jessica Vollkommer are not mere chefs or cooks. They are very gifted and celebrated culinary artists of the highest order. That they are in our community is an honor each of us should understand and hopefully appreciate. Frank could have found a job working with almost any large corporation just because of his epic and very hard to achieve status of being a Certified Master Pastry Chef. That Jessica and he decided to move up to our neck of the wood, and to work in this small and precious cafe, is a gift they are giving us and themselves. Thus, it is no surprise that during service, from his window looking into the cafe from inside the kitchen, Frank keeps a keen eye on the happenings around the room. What makes me most proud of him and his commitment to the restaurant is his ego-free personality and manner. He can be seen busing tables, cleaning them, straightening tables and chairs, fluffing pillows and placing them where they should have been, and feeling pride as he works for all that he has created. Bravo!
Braised Short Rib Stacker - pulled beef short rib sandwich is what this is. But it is DONE RIGHT. How hungry we are around here for great food, that even a pulled beef sandwich done right, becomes culinary epiphany. Of course the bread is wonderful home made sourdough. Pickled red onions, tomato and arugula are dressed with brie and black truffle dressing. The mixed greens come with roasted shallot vinaigrette.
Tandoori Chicken Salad - Yogurt, ginger and lime marinated chicken. Carrot-Ginger-Basmati Rice Salad comes with it. And the greens have a creamy feta dressing. I was suspect, as I ought to be of Tandoori Chicken Salad anywhere. But to be honest, this was surprisingly banal. When I say banal, I mean it as a compliment. Often, people make things too fussy and too tortured when making something they have not grown up with. This was like all their cooking, honest, simple and correct. Even better, the chicken was moist. Not often achieved by many, since people use breast meat, and over cooking it is suicide. Tandoori chicken even if not your cup of tea, is never too dry, even in some of the worst Indian restaurants. It is part and parcel of the marination process, that you get a moist cut of meat on the plate. The chefs succeed in delivering that, and our guests who we have taken to TCM, have commented on just that. This moistness in itself should be reason to celebrate the kitchens talents, but that they handle Indian flavors with subtlety and care, another accolade for them to enjoy.
Grilled BBQ Pork Sandwich - Twice braised pork butt with Frank Vollkommer's (Frankie V's) special spice rub & house made coffee bbq sauce, red onion marmalade, smoked bacon, aged Vermont cheddar cheese - all served on house made High Rise Hominy Corn bread (co-owner and co-chef Jessica Vollkommer tells me that when they took it off the menu a while back there was a riot!). By popular demand, it is back and better than ever, the bread is amazing too. Jessica loves the bread and calls it her favorite. Why? She says "it gets brushed with a sea salt butter when it comes right out of the oven" and that is what does it for her, and I must say, made all the difference for us and all our guests too. Thanks Jessica and Frank!
Roast Beef Sandwich - New York State roast beef, caramelized red onions, tomatoes, romaine lettuce, house made sour dough & blues cheese dressing. Can it get simpler? Not really. At least if you want flavor and taste to the calories you bring into your body. Frank and Jessica create food that is at once tasty, attractive and also "clean" if you will. Clean is not a word one wants to use around food. Does one really eat "dirty food"? Yes! SO much of the food Most restaurants serve today, is often out of a frozen truck, delivering precooked food, that is brought to temperature, assembled onto a plate, and passed of as "house made". That is where DIRTY comes into food. And we ought to call it DIRTY and nothing else. Rest assured, at The Chocolate Mill, such food is not served, nor brought in. They are all about cooking as much locally sourced food as possible, and when they bring in product to cook and bake with, they make the correct choices, and these are decisions that help you eat good food, tasty food and "clean food" every bite you take.
One night we had dinner at TCM, a wonderful bread basket, with warm bread, made it to our table. The bread sticks were wonderfully salty and crisp. The butter room temperature and pliable to enjoy with warm bread. Simple and right. That seems to be the core message I have picked up from our experiences. A welcome message, and a welcome discovery for sure.
The restaurant is small and modest in size. The food far from modest in flavor, taste and bang-for-the-buck experience. It is this sensibility that strives me as a wise step in the right direction. Ego for large space, did not handicap the delivery and execution. Often, chefs with limited resources, put all their resources into the physical space, and then have to close a restaurant just as soon as it opens, because they run out of funds. Not knowing what the realities of this establishment are, I know if they fail or succeed, they would be doing so because of the food. The space is clean, sweet and attractive, but nothing epic, nothing substantially awe inspiring that it alone can make or break the restaurant. But what the clever owners/chefs have done, is to give you a very chocolate-y experience within the restaurant, that keeps the idea of chocolate, quality and finesse in your mind during your time within the space. Little details will make you smile and feel that someone who cares has designed the space. Not to say there are not other details that could have been handled better. I wish real candles, and not fake ones were used, if the need is felt. The offerings are too beautiful and special, to be placed at the side of something plastic and not so worthy of that companionship. But that is too minute a detail to worry about. The space is clean, maintained keenly and offers a wonderful little jewel box for people to come enjoy painstakingly created, beautifully flavored and professionally served edible gems.
Apricot Almond Cake - almond mazarin base, apricot mousse, Tahitian vanilla bean apricot compote are the elements of this stunning and delicious dessert. Yes, many words might be unfamiliar, but none of the elements are that foreign, that anyone ought to be afraid. These are the elements of fine baking and confectionery, that are copied by mass producers, "dumbed down" and reduced to "unclean" food, that in end, kills us with diseases that desserts alone could not induce. Eat Frank and Jessica's desserts without fear. Theirs are classic creations, given their own twists and attitude, and created with a style that bespeaks chic, elegant, expensive and fancy - but are never pricey or unaffordable. In fact they sell their creations rather reasonably, and if you lifted The Chocolate Mill from Glens Falls, and moved it into NYC, you would be seeing people pay double or triple for the same offering, and lines waiting to buy this fare.
From display case, to plate, to mouth, to tummy - the Vanilla Bean Cheesecake is glorious at each stage. I looked at it, and I could have cried enjoying its simplicity. SO MANY of the desserts here, or rather, every dessert you look at, is gorgeously crafted, meticulously designed and keenly constructed. It would be hard to pick favorites. And yet, each one evokes very different reactions, and for different reasons. As Zoe Francois (who became speechless after tasting several of the offerings) stated after having spent several minutes in silence, that there was a purity of flavor and taste to every dessert. You could taste each flavor. You tasted each ingredient. It as all pure. It was all simple. In this dessert, you taste Vanilla and Vanilla and More Vanilla. But never assertive, but forthright and honest. What was mind boggling beyond that, was the smoothness of the cheesecake, the mouth-feel that is impossible for most to create. You could easily call it a mousse, a flan or a pudding, but it is beyond what each of those terms could bring to it. This is a dessert unto itself, and created by master patissiers, who pride themselves for clarity of execution, thought and vision.
What you see is what you get. Blueberries. BIG BEAUTIFUL BLUEBERRIES in this case. I am sure in peak of summer, as we have local blueberries, the chefs will be using those. I know our berries from Gardenworks in Salem and those we buy from Black Lab Farm in Greenwich, NY, are outstanding and cannot be equaled. I cannot wait to eat the blueberry dessert at The Chocolate Mill in summer, and see how their brilliance is further enhanced by the heightened taste and aromas of the berries. Most beautiful in this tart, as also the other berry tarts for me is the delicate crust with a most delicate cream that takes nothing away from the fruit, and at the same time, gives a textural contrast that glorifies it.
A creation of Frank and Jessica Vollkommer together, this is a sweet-treat that will give you new respect for peanuts and desserts. Having grown up in India, without peanut butter, it has taken me a long time, and much exploring, before getting to the point where peanuts have become a very dear friend and fellow companion in the kitchen. Peanuts are VERY important in the Indian kitchen. But they were never sweet. Of course we LOVE peanut brittle, but even that is not as sweet as the peanut brittle I found in America. And so, peanuts and I had a rough beginning, but like all worthy and special relationships, after the initial trials, we have now become companions of great understanding. I trust few with peanuts, and yet I indulge in peanuts incessantly. At TCM, the Milk Chocolate and Peanut Tart will change whatever stereotype you might have for peanuts. If you love them, this will become your favorite peanut dessert. If you have never understood America's love affair with peanuts and sweet, you will get it finally. Try this, and you will never question the role of peanuts in pastry. What is not to like about a nice dark milk chocolate, peanut butter schmear, vanilla butter caramel, milk chocolate mousse and whole roasted peanuts? These are all amazingly tasty elements of pastry - and luckily for me, and for you, they come together in this one simple, sexy and delicious dessert.
Jessica Vollkommer proclaimed rather innocently to our table that this dessert was her favorite. Well, she did not need to explain that statement. This Cherry Pistachio Cake had become my favorite, even as I was photographing it. Something told me, that no chef, would work this hard, to make something look this beautiful, were it not worthy of such attention and care. It is a creation of Jessica's and she is correct to love it and be proud of it. Nestled on top of a buttery-nutty pistachio cake are layers of tart cherries and cherry mousse. Do not ask too many questions. Do not bother understanding what makes this cake come together. Just order it. Enjoy it, feel elated and bless Jessica and Frank for being in business and giving all of us such rarefied indulgences.
Lemon Blueberry Cake does not as a name do justice for a cake as seemingly unctuous as this. It is actually quite earnest and spiritual. It may also be one of the simpler things Frank Vollkommer has created. The brilliance of the toasted meringue that skirts the cake, and makes your mouth drool, is only aesthetically pleasing. What he has hidden inside this robe, is the magic you want to experience and celebrate. The lemon custard, the wild blueberry compote and the almond cake create a marriage that is fit only for those ready to take on a journey of ascetic simplicity after this indulgence. You would not want to eat more after finishing this and the Cherry Pistachio Cake. The husband and wife, have then each gifted you with a dessert, that propels you into a plane that will make it easier for you to become one with celestial powers.
Metro Carrot Cake - Well Frank Vollkommer could be called a metrosexual. Or perhaps I do not know him well enough to label him. But I can say comfortably that he is not a man who would be easily classified as a sexist or chauvinist. I see him quite comfortable in his own skin, and because of that, quite at ease enjoying the brilliance of the women in his team and his uber-talented and very brilliant wife (his fellow chef and owner of The Chocolate Mill). To me that alone are the qualities one would wish for all men to have, and every woman must celebrate in a man. Chauvinism and sexism should have no place in our lives. Frank is thus the perfect artist to render a good ole cake from America into its metro-version. What can one do to make a carrot cake more today? Well tons and that is what Frank has done. Again, a carrot cake is a VERY ALL AMERICAN cake, not always appreciated by the entire world of sweet lovers. This cake, gives you a classic, that is somewhat restrained, but never ashamed to be all about carrots. A puree of carrots makes the resulting cake get a far better crumb. It also brings forth a shining flavor of carrots, you do not always get in a carrot cake. Cream cheese mousse and a pineapple compote, bring gravitas and contrast to the texture and flavors of the cake.
Passion White Chocolate Tart - Created by chef Hannah in the kitchen of The Chocolate Mill, it is as much an ode to Jessica and Frank as it is a compliment to Hannah. That this fact was disclosed to me when I appreciated the tart, speaks volumes about the honesty, personalities and the confidence of the chefs. They give credit where credit is due. Good for them, and lucky for Hannah that she works for these two great chefs. Hannah created a passion fruit custard that Jessica found tasty, but very tart. Hannah then thought the white chocolate mousse could be a nice balancing partner in a dessert. Jessica asked her to create this dessert. Hannah did. Customers loved it, and now it is on the menu. A good kitchen is exactly like this - a breeding ground for ideas and experimentation.
The ubiquitous Black Forest Cake takes on a new face and appropriate flavors at TCM. Far too many times, anything brown, with some white icing, and some chocolate shavings is labeled as black forest cake, and ruins this age old German/Austrian cakes name. Better still, as Frank Volkommer modernized this cake, he also made it edible for people who are Gluten Intolerant. As the percentage of people with Celiac disease increases, desserts are being questioned more and more. Smart chefs are pushing ahead and creating sweet-edibles that reflect their style, meet their standards and also give all diners something mindfully crafted and edible by larger audiences. Such chefs could become the ecumenical voices of the food community, and to them we must give our salutations. In this dessert Frank uses a flourless chocolate cake and layers it with brandy infused cherry compote, whipped chocolate ganache and a beautifully luxe vanilla mousse. There is drama on the top of the cake, but this time around, it is a garnish crafted with some care and effort.
Raspberry Chocolate Almond Cake - As beautiful as this cake looks, it is also a cake that highlights many of the intricacies that can be brought into the art and craft of bakery - and then take desserts onto a level where they are more than just edibles. They become the stuff of midnight cravings. Another favorite of its creator Jessica, this cake is a celebration of almonds and raspberries in equal measure. An Almond-Butter cake that is at once soft and tender is mixed with fresh raspberries, a raspberry mousse and a dark chocolate mousse. If this were not enough, it also has toasted almonds, that push the envelope of enjoyment and indulgence yet further. Jessica seems to celebrate flavor in a way that is similar to Frank's yet quite different. It is this constant play between the two, and their creations, that can put forth at one table, relatively different desserts, but desserts that have the look and feel of being part of one collection or brand.
Tropical Breeze - Well no tropical island or city that I have ever been in has afforded me such wondrous beauty to behold. Or if it did, I also had to accept and embrace the harshness of tropical climes. The humidity, the high temperatures, sometimes the flies and bugs and of course the scents and odors that can come part and parcel of tropical magic. In this gloriously seductive dessert, Frank takes his child-like hunger to fuse flavors, textures, tastes, and skin-deep beauty and marries it to the depths of knowledge and experience and bring to the plate sinful and delicious bites of guttural pleasure. A pillow of vanilla roulade (think jelly roll cake) and coconut creamu (yes the spelling is right, go ask Jessica and Frank what it really means) holds on top of it a deeply satisfying compote of the most flavorful pineapples you will ever taste and it that were not enough, you also have with it a mousse of luxuriously smooth mango and passion fruit. These are then enrobed in a slick and smooth glaze of utterly-mango mango glaze and garnished beyond need with some toasted coconut. This to let you know, that the tropics are never too shy about advertising all their attributes.
Strawberry Cream Cake - A creation of Jessica's, this is a playful and modern play on the yesteryear, and still-my-favorite-summer-dessert, the famous Strawberry Shortcake. Jessica takes a vanilla mousse and creates a smoother and more luxurious and restrained cream for the cake and the strawberry compote to be paired with. This is elegant, sophisticated and very fancy, and has a place in the world of desserts. It makes Strawberry Shortcake taken on a longer season, for you can make it with winter berries, turn them into a compote, and thereby not miss any of the flavor that you would otherwise find absent, were you making a shortcake in the winter.
The Strawberry and Raspberry Tarts at TCM, are honest fruit tarts, much like the blueberry tarts I had talked about earlier. They are created using a rich buttery-sugary tart pastry (pate sucre) and filling it with a Tahitian vanilla pastry cream. The fruits (strawberries or raspberries or blueberries) are placed on top of that and left to sing their own song. Delicate, honest and sincere are words that come to mind, as I reflect on these tarts. I could eat one every hour, and still crave another, 48 or 72 or more hours later, on the hour, every hour. Need I say more?
Pistachio-Raspberry Financier - This is not something you will find on the menu, and yet, if you have read this blog post, you should know what may have created this. We got this as a end-of-meal treat, and we left the restaurant marveling at the sophistry that takes place in the kitchen at TCM. Jessica created a dessert highlighting pistachios, and Frank sees it as his opportunity to wow us with a little gift-with-purchase that is not on the menu. Financiers are Charlie and my favorite of all little indulgences. There are those that like Madeline's and then there are those of us that cry for Financiers. Traditionally made with almonds and filled or not with some jam on top, they are about texture and the flavor of the nut-oil that takes them to heights most cakes cannot achieve on their own. The raspberry added color and pizaaz, the pistachio cake was wonderful just by itself, a goal the Financier always achieves. This kitchen knows what it is doing. And guests here know they are in a very special and elevated temple to fine cuisine and especially very fine pastries.
The Coffee Mill - It is named after the shape of the old fashioned coffee mills. And it is far from anything old fashioned. A creation of Frank Vollkommer, a young master of the pastry kitchen, it is only as old as the mind of this grand master of all things sweet and many things savory. A flourless cake ensures that this ultra-chic and uber-fancy looking dessert remains the indulgence of one and all. Have celiac disease? Come eat this. Allergic to ground-nuts and tree nuts? Come eat this. Anti Dessert? I challenge you to not beg for a second bite. A flourless cake, Bailey's Irish Cream parfait, coffee parfait and a ULTRA SHINY CHOCOLATE GLAZE make this cake an indulgence you ought to indulge at least once in your lifetime. And if you are lucky like me, and live close by, something you ought to indulge as often as possible.
Chocolate and Grand Marnier Cake - A flourless chocolate cake and a baked orange and chocolate ganache somehow morph at the hands of these master patissiers and becomes the base of this Gluten Free indulgence that is a show stopper and pastry at its very best. A Grand Marnier Parfait adds color and gilded appearance. Sitting as garnish are Mineola Oranges. Life is beautiful at every bite of this dessert, and with each bite, you want to order more, and ensure the chefs never run out of Mineola Oranges and their lease at this location or any other they ever rent.
Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Slice - I wonder often at TCM if my ID proves that I am old enough to eat such beautiful creations of edible pleasure. Theirs are desserts that seem to beautiful and sexy to be eaten without one being carded. I am sure if the religious right, the neo-cons and the bigots of the world came to know of TCM, they would immediately start creating a mechanism to move the Congress, and the Supreme Court and all powers they feel they can influence and move to impose and TOTAL BAN on these offerings of two very clever artists of the culinary arts. Here the husband and wife team give us another Gluten Free indulgence. This time in the form of a flourless chocolate cake that is layered with raspberry jam (can it get any simpler?) and also the sexiest of all textures - a chocolate and raspberry ganache. Like a brownie? You will LOVE this one. Like the tired pairing of chocolate and raspberry? You are in heaven. Hate the pairing of chocolate and raspberry? Think again!
German Chocolate Cake- How boring it sounds, and yet it is far from boring. Worse still, this cake is quite friendly and to many. It is a sexy beautiful cake. How do they do it? Well, just understand that Frank and Jessica Vollkommer are not ordinary pastry chefs, they are a very dynamic and gifted duo. They also are two very gifted individuals, that have great confidence in their own talents, and also see, respect and understand the talent of the other. And so, they have created between themselves an unspoken competition that keeps them creating new goodies that they hope can outshine the creations of the other, and they also know when to partner and create what they can only do so in tandem. Luckily, they are this smart, and we are able to enjoy offerings of many kinds, and of varied taste, texture, looks and brilliance. This is a atelier of pastry and confections, that would otherwise need to be filled with infinitely greater number of chefs. A two-people army, here you will find discipline and creativity, that marry to become edible luxuries enjoyed by lucky patrons. This cake celebrates buttermilk-chocolate cake and a coconut pecan icing.
I can say from personal experience that the Tropical Breeze and the BBQ Pork Sandwich were both excellent, and passed my "food test", which is: Do I care if I ever have this again?
And yes, I care very much!
To look at all these beautiful photos is to get a sense of the
painstaking work that goes into the offerings at the Chocolate Mill.
Posted by: Sally | Friday, April 30, 2010 at 07:27 AM
suvir has expressed everthing about frank and jess so brilliantly that all i can say is their creations are more than worth the 90 mile round trip from schenectady! so addictive that i am there 2-3 times a week! perfect for vegetarians like me ! love their potato dill soup and wish they served their amazing mac and cheese all year round ! now my friends from albany feel like me!
Posted by: nitty singh | Friday, April 30, 2010 at 05:52 PM
I forgot to mention the mango and blackberry pate de fruits - they were amazing!
Posted by: Sally | Friday, April 30, 2010 at 09:12 PM
Wow. Your blog is filling the void of Gourmet Magazine in my life. Thank you.
When I was in the Ice Capades in the early 80's, we played Glens Falls. A beautiful place to say the least.
xo
David
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Saturday, May 01, 2010 at 12:28 AM
Not sure I could ever fill the void left by Gourmet magazine.
You are being too kind and generous. I can say though, that The Chocolate Mill has quickly filled the void we had in our community of good food. It is a wonderful haven of honest tastes and flavors in North Country.
You should come visit. You will certainly be charmed with this addition to the area you had visited years ago.
Posted by: suvir saran | Monday, May 03, 2010 at 02:57 AM
Thanks Chef. If I visit I may never leave. I love what I am doing now professionally, however I am tired. LOL Who isn't right? And the elusive practice of creating the perfect croissant haunts me. :-)
Best,
David
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Friday, May 07, 2010 at 01:54 AM
I think I gained 10 pounds just by reading this. My mom lives not too far away. Next visit, I'm there. Wonderful beautiful pics, Suvir! Looking so forward to seeing you at the Silo in June.
Posted by: mary | Monday, May 17, 2010 at 09:00 PM
Hi Mary!
You should tell you mother to check out The Chocolate Mill even before you visit her next.
She will bless you for this discovery.
Of course one can gain weight eating (or rather overeating) here, but you can rest assured knowing you are eating "real" food, not stuff bought from a truck delivering frozen fare, that most restaurants in our part of the country, just defrost, heat and serve.
Glad you like the photos. They are beautiful mostly because of the artists that are behind the confections that the camera documented. I wish I could take credit for the beauty of the photos.
Looking forward to seeing you at the Silo in a few weeks.
Posted by: suvir saran | Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 12:37 AM