When Marry Ann Joulwan invites us to dinner, we know we are in for stupendous food. And most importantly, we know we will eat well, eat without fuss or frills, but eat beautiful food that is incomparable in taste and satisfying beyond description.
Cauliflower with tarator sauce was simple but far from simplistic. Cooked correctly. Mary Ann worried that she had gone too far with the cooking. But in end, we all felt it was actually perfectly cooked. Had just the right texture. Often I wonder if American kids would eat more vegetables had Americans taken just a few more minutes in the preparation of these amazingly healthful ingredients. We either serve kids raw vegetables (crudites) or overcooked goopy and limp veggies that taste and look nothing like what they ought to be. And in cooking them that far, we also lose all of what is good in them. How I wish more would strive for perfection the Japanese way. Nothing is done short of perfection or close to it. Whilst they are not a culture one ought to look at for total inspiration, at least we can strive to come close to them in food perfection. If we can cherry pick various things from various cultures, why do we not cherry pick cooking habits from the correct places? Tarator is a great addition to most tables I think. It goes with vegetables such as this cauliflower, but beautifully with meat and fish too. I can see it accompanying certain grilled chicken as well. Made in the food processor, it is not too bad for you either. Mary Ann's tarator was made with tahini. It is made also with pine nuts and bread by some. Of course olive oil, garlic and lemon juice.
Walking into Mary Ann's home is akin to walking into an art gallery, or a home furnishings store. Things belong here. They are at her home for a purpose. Nothing is out of place. Order is the heart and soul of this space. And yet, even in disorder, you see a purpose. The lemons greeted me first. They are used a lot in this household. It makes sense then that they greet you and they hold center stage, under her grandparents tiffany style lamp. The impatiens welcoming the falling leaves of the vinca vine. The fruits bringing color to the table whilst looking like a subject waiting to be painted into a still life. Everything has been planned. Everything is natural. Edible art, functional art. Form, function and design all come together. There is magic to all of this, but also a wondrous frugality, that I wish more people would catch, copy and make their own. Especially in times of economic distress, when we all need to spread out our resources but also celebrate life and living. Mary Ann has a natural knack for being practical and wise. It is part and parcel of her DNA. As you walk through the living room and into the back yard, you realize the table and the surroundings are all sharing the Mary Ann way with you. I bow to her sensibilities, I salute her for being a gourmet beyond most I know, and celebrate her every day for the magic she brings into all lives she enriches.
Give me Rishta and I will love you a lifetime! Well almost. Mary Ann was the first person I was formally introduced to in America. And she has remained my dear friend since that evening in fall of 1993. This soup above (Rishta) has given us comfort over warm summers, bitter-cold winters, rainy evenings, seen us through sad times and given us a companion to relish in times of celebration. It is a perfect partner - always! No surprise then that both my books have a version of it. Indian Home Cooking has a straight-on recipe from Mary Ann. American Masala has a one pot version, that now Mary Ann follows I believe. Is that true Mary Ann? Of course she might not add the cumin or chili that I add. Rishta and Mujadarrah are very comforting and very delicious. They also happen to be extremely healthful. Honest food has a sincerity that makes it healthy and good. I would also add Harira to this group, and make it my Trio of Never-fail-to-please dishes. Hence the desire to get people into the kitchen, cooking real food, with fresh ingredients (or dry peas, beans, lentils if that is the case) and with love and care. Mary Ann has parsley on the soup when I first met her. She now add cilantro as the garnish. I wonder if she only does it for my family and I. Of course lemon juice takes the soup to great heights of higher culinary nirvana. The key to the brilliance in taste, and that rich burnished color lies in the browning of the onions. Browned till they are DARK but not burnt (but almost to the point of burning) and CRISP with a lack of any moisture. At this point, when you add water, they melt away to create this richly flavorful, sweet and slightly bitter, broth that will enrobe the lentils, cook them, and flavor them magically.
Stuffed grape leaves are not for everyone, and yet, millions eat them daily, or at least very regularly. Such was not the case with me. I have never found them appealing, and still, even seventeen years after having had these (which made me fall in love with them at first suspicious bite) I have little if any courage to try them, and most always find them not for me. But this particular recipe made by Mary Ann, changed my heart, and has stayed with me, as a loyal friend, as a friend I come to for blissful flavors, every time I crave stuffed grape leaves and good food. It is a luxury all of us that know Mary Ann have come to spoil ourselves with. We do not ask for them often, for we all know stuffing grape leaves is hardly anything one ought to do on a regular basis. Mary Ann just does it more often than she should. That is how she is. Spoiling all she knows, with boundless love and affection and countless acts of kindness. Last night was no exception. Finally feeling the jet-lag from my express trip to India, this was the perfect meal for a body and soul needing the comfort of home and comforting food. Far from home still, this meal, and Mary Ann's home, made me feel at least whilst I was there, as if I was at home, and nestled in my chair, enjoying bowls and plates of my favorite foods. Her stuffed grape leaves are not Lebanese and this might explain the love all of us have for them. Somehow the Lebanese, Syrian and Israeli version just do not do it for me, or most I know. They require a certain acquired taste, that has to be created from birth. This version came to Mary Ann from Armenian friends of hers. In fact the Wolohojian family has given the world many wonderful things. Jon Andrew Wolohojian was one such gift the family shared with the world. A dear, dear man, kind beyond how words could ever describe him, beautiful even when challenged by life and moments, and with a spirit that transcended the mortal and went to angelic heights. Sad that he was robbed from our world at a very young age. For me, his families recipe of these supernal stuffed grape leaves, is also a way of remembering Jon. A man who helped me every time I needed it, and many times when I did not even realize I needed help and support. Such was his intuition. Jon gave NYC and its antique lovers the Antique Cafe in Chelsea. If Jon touched something it became gold. Midas Touch could easily have been renamed Jon Touch! Jon and his family have also given us all these great stuffed grape leaves. And Mary Ann is the vehicle through which they come to many of us. Thanks Mary Ann. I have very fond memories of eating these, making them with Mary Ann, and also sourcing the grape leaves. This is food fit for the Gods. And luckily for us, Mary Ann treats her friends as very special beings, whom she indulges with the best gift of all, the labor of love.
NYC is home to people from all over. People with stories. People with a life that is beyond just mere living. People that make this city home come here expressly to have a NY Experience. Part of that experience is the ability to find in NYC fellow minds, hearts and souls, that each have traveled and longed for something similar in their own life. It is this that makes us different from the rest. This is not a city for the meek of the heart. Those that are afraid. Or the ones that cannot leave family for fear that they would miss family when living miles and oceans away. Those that land in the womb of NYC create in an instant, or at least within weeks a vast family of friends, neighbors, and even strangers. It is this hunger to search for people like oneself, or at least people that we understand and who understand us that makes associations and friendships made in NYC, ever lasting and precious. My family is VERY dear to me. My parents are pillars of strength, and my sister and brother always a minute away when I am in a place of angst, doubt or need. NYC has also given me friends like Mary Ann, who have opened home, heart and everything else they have to me. Fattoush is one such discovery made by me because of Mary Ann. She has brought much too much into my life. Fattoush was a gift given to me by an assistant I had whilst managing the Metropolitan Museum's gift store in Short Hills Mall in New Jersey. Jehan (Jihan) Tannous was of Lebanese descent, and would bring Fattoush at least a couple of times each week in her lunch box. It was always something she shared with me. She knew I had fallen in love with this salad. This was fifteen years ago. And then I left NJ. And moved on with the trails of my own life. I can never forget Jehan (sp?) and her mother, and how they spoiled me. Luckily, Mary Ann came to my rescue and took me to places where we enjoyed Fattoush. No Fattoush ever came close to how the mother and daughter duo would make it. I was always excited, but in end also sad, and wanting. Then one day Mary Ann got us invited to the home of Najwa Sarkis Stone and at her table in Midtown-East. Everything changed that very moment. Fattoush came alive again. It sang and danced in my mouth and warmed my heart. Najwa's fattoush was just like that I remembered from my days in Short Hills. An invitation to Najwa's home is nothing you take lightly. It is an invite to experience something beyond the ordinary, and in a setting that is equally as precious and charming as the food you will eat. We knew we were lucky to be at this table, but little did I know it would transport me back in memory lane, and afford me that enjoyment I had forgotten. Good fattoush should bring you the joy of tasting tart, crispy, crunchy, sour, savory and herbal all at once. But that only if made correctly. Sumac and mint, lemon and garlic and crispy pita all come together to take the cucumber, tomatoes, radishes, scallions and lettuce to heights you can never imagine. I love a mix of fresh mint, cilantro and parsley in mine. But am just as happy eating it with mint and parsley. Which is more traditional. There is a recipe for Najwa's fattoush in American Masala. I get rave reviews of it from people that buy the book. We also sell it at Cornell University and it pleases students and faculty alike. Last night we tossed fattoush on the go. It tasted marvelous. The garlic, sumac, lemon, freshly ground black pepper, dried mint and fresh herbs do something together, that make this salad a salad beyond most salads.
We had the soup as the first course. Both Charlie and I had two bowls each. I could have had four or five. And then we had a plateful of Mezze that looked stunning and tasted even better. Fattoush, cauliflower with tarator, hummus, muhammara, stuffed grape leaves and tzatziki.
Who needs meat with such glorious food on the plate? This is the kind of food that makes carnivores into vegetarians. It is also the kind of food that ensures you live a health, long and joyous life.
How I hope more people would love mindfully, eat food made with love, and share that food with loved ones. It is not that difficult to cook and certainly not as much of a chore as we make it out to be. An hour a day, spent in the preparation of that which we put into our mouths, should not sound as too much to give. But it seems that is where we are stuck. People are convincing themselves that an hour is too much. They do not have it to spare. And so our family structure, our family lives and our health have all been compromised. Perhaps good food, great taste, and the comfort one gets from eating well will change at least some minds, and then those minds can change others. That is my hope. I know Mary Ann has changed my mind around some amazing things in life - and good food is one of them.
Mary Ann is a very passionate woman!
And she is passionate about nothing more than food.
Your description and the wonderful pictures capture it so perfectly, that I wish I could have been there...
Posted by: Ralf | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 10:29 AM
I agree with your Ralf.
It begins and ends with good food around Mary Ann.
Not that she is obsessive about it. It is just that she has grown up eating good food, or rather great food. And so even in minutes, cooking something VERY basic, she makes magical flavors come out.
Glad you approve of the pictures. They were taken without flash, without much light, with a slow shutter speed, and have not been photoshopped. The credit if any due to them, for their looks, goes to Mary Ann and the food.
I too wish you could have been there. Been ages. Hope you are well. Certainly you are a year older. Sorry to have missed your birthday bash.
Posted by: suvir saran | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 10:48 AM
What can I say about Mary Ann? She is one of the most wonderful souls you would ever come across in your life. And I am not just talking about her cooking.
But let us talk about her cooking and hospitality. I have had the good fortune to be connected to Mary Ann through Suvir, and have been invited to many parties she has hosted. Her hospitality will blow you away. I can categorically say that I have not found a restaurant that serves better Labanese dishes than the ones I have had at her place.
I am glad Suvir mentioned her grape leaves, one of my many favorites. In fact, I had these yesterday, when Suvir brought these back to our apartment. Mary Ann was apologizing on the phone and sayig they were burnt. I said "really?" If these were burnt and taste like heaven, I don't know if I can even imagine the joy the perfect (in her mind) ones would be able to bring to the palatte. I think she is just very modest.
Her soups and salads always leave me longing for more. And I never leave her apartment feeling overfull. Everything is light, refreshing, scrumptious, and very healthy. Mary Ann, you are a wonder.
I have had the fortune of watching her prepare some of these dishes. There are no shortcuts, either in the work involved in preparing a carfully crafted meal, or the unbounded love that goes into it.
Thanks, Suvir for this blog - giving us all a chance to share our personal joy in knowing Mary Ann and profiting from her wonderful cooking.
Posted by: Ajit Sagar | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 01:31 PM
I agree, the photos are amazing! Such beautiful colors let us know how skilled Mary Ann is in the kitchen. I would love to have her recipe for the cauliflower! It is much maligned in the US, but cauliflower is one of my favorite veggies. Mary Ann has a magical patio - sitting in it, you would never know you're in the midst of NYC. What are the beautifully colored cocktails? Campari and orange?
Posted by: Sally | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 02:07 PM
Also meant to say that Mary Ann's is one of those rare places where you feel instantly at home and at ease. She welcomes you like a long lost favorite relative, and you feel the same way about her. We are lucky to have her in our universe!
Posted by: Sally | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 02:22 PM
Thanks, Suvir, for this very accurate description of my Aunt MaryAnn, her warmth and welcome, her food and home. I have delighted in many of her meals and every time I am lucky enough to be in NYC, I savor the opportunity to dine with her at her home. You captured it all quite beautifully and I will save this blog post to share with my children. You have a gift with words and your passionate descriptions brings the character of my Aunt to life. Thank you for coming into our lives! And Aunt MaryAnn, thank you for your heart, your love and your food! God bless. Patti
Posted by: Patti Mooradian | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 04:58 PM
I have beautiful grape leaves growing all around, but I have not figured out the knack to making stuffed grapes leaves. I envy your dinner.
Posted by: Paula | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 09:16 PM
Paula, the next cookbook has the recipe for Mary Ann's delicious stuffed grape leaves. It is coming out October of next year. You will LOVE these grape leaves. Not at all what one imagines when wanting to enjoy grape leaves. If you LOVE grape leaves, these will show you a new appreciation for them. If you hate grape leaves, think again, these will have you loving them. How wonderful that you have grape vines. We tried growing a few, and none of them came up the following year. We need to ask you for help.
Come join us for dinner sometime. It would be a pleasure to have you at the table. You are such a special and gifted person. We are lucky to have you as a neighbor.
Posted by: suvir saran | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 11:47 PM
Sally the drink you ask about is indeed Campari and Orange. Charlie and Mary Ann's favorite cocktail to enjoy when dining together. And it also happens to be one of these few cocktails that I LOVE as well. I had two of them last night. Ha!
Posted by: suvir saran | Tuesday, June 22, 2010 at 11:49 PM
Patti, you are too kinds. Hardly gifted with words. They are what they are. I speak too much in a world that revolves around sound-bites. I wish I knew how to be precise and articulate.
Mary Ann is so special that it is not very difficult to show her in a good light. Of course another person, especially a writer, would have done her justice. I did try and meant every word. Like the many comments after the posting of this entry - it is clear that people are touched by Mary Ann and her generosity in more ways than one.
Your family is very special. And I am lucky to have found you all. Thanks for visiting the blog. And thanks for your kindness.
Posted by: suvir saran | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 12:09 AM
Who needs meat? I do, but that's another story for another day! ;-)
Gorgeous pix of gorgeous food. I need to find people like you all Suvir, to hang out with.
xo
D
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 12:28 AM
It was more of a statement about great vegetarian food being so satisfying that most would not miss meat when served food like that.
Of course there are wonderful meat dishes that are so very memorable and special, that one could hardly fathom living in a world without them. But that still does not account for the mediocre dishes that people eat, just because they think of them as "nice" and "fancy" just because they are prepared with meat.
I am sure you already have people like us, and yourself to hang with. You are always too polite and kind.
Did you ever make the Mujadarrah?
Posted by: suvir saran | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 12:36 AM
I haven't made the Mujadarrah yet. Traveling to Las Vegas then Lake Tahoe for my job has kept me busy and out of the kitchen. I have some time off coming - heading for the Coast I hope - near Santa Cruz and then some time in our farmers markets.
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 12:48 AM
Cannot wait to see the photos and reactions from your Mujadarrah experience.
Enjoy the farmers market, Santa Cruz and your time off.
Posted by: suvir saran | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 12:52 AM
What a gorgeous recipe for harira: It is one of my favorite soups, but I've never made it with chicken--will give it go as soon as the mercury drops below 98 degrees! I so agree about the lemon--it commpletely transforms the soup. Beautiful photos throughout this post, BTW!
Posted by: Courtenay | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 11:52 AM
Glad you approve of the recipe of the harira Courtenay. Try making it, and you will understand why it is so special. Thanks for your kind words about the photographs. You are too nice to me.
Posted by: suvir saran | Wednesday, June 23, 2010 at 11:21 PM
Hello Suvir,
Lovely article on my sister Mary Ann. It captures the essence of her love for family and friends as shown through the preparation and presentation of food. Simple, sincere, delightful and delicious.
Jackie Joulwan Dougherty
Posted by: Jackie Joulwan Dougherty | Saturday, June 26, 2010 at 08:39 PM
Hello Jackie!
Your sister is family to us. And she treats us and spoils us like only a very dear friend or a family member can ever afford another.
Her food is exactly how you describe it, "simple, sincere, delightful and delicious". Thanks for giving me succinct words for that magical food she prepared. Hope you and yours are well.
Suvir
Posted by: suvir saran | Sunday, June 27, 2010 at 11:17 AM
Hi there Mary Ann, Suvir, Charlie and friends!
Having had the pleasure of Mary Ann and Suvir's cooking delights I feel a lucky boy!
Mary Ann, your English breakfasts are the best! Miss you, much love...
Suvir, Miss you both, the house, the dogs, the animals, your energy and passion and Bob's Diner!!
Hope to speak to you soon!
Adam (your English son!)
Posted by: Adam Croxall | Wednesday, June 30, 2010 at 01:21 AM
Hi Adam!
Where in the world are you?
I know you are not in Afghanistan anymore.. are you in the UK?
Hopefully settled somewhat?
We are lucky to have been blessed with your company and friendship and your person at our tables and homes.
Mary Ann's table is beautiful in so many ways. I have never had an English Breakfast in her home.. so I must try and get myself invited for one... hopefully Mary Ann will read this and do the needful. Hehe
We were at Bob's Lunch yesterday. It was great.. we missed you and talked about you. Come visit us. Charlie missed Daniel and you. The doggies, ducks, chickens, goats, sheep, alpacas and guinea hens would all love your company.
Enjoy the summer and hope we get to see you very soon.
Suvir
Posted by: suvir saran | Wednesday, June 30, 2010 at 11:03 PM
Okay I went to the store today and purchase the ingredients for the Mujadarrah. That may happen tomorrow. I have Lahey's no knead bread going too. 6 days off from work and I better have something to show for it! ;-)
D
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Thursday, July 01, 2010 at 01:24 AM
To all of you who have honored me so warmly
and so generously, I thank you from the bottom
of my heart.
To be honest, I am embarrassed for being praised
for something that comes naturally to me - that is,
sharing my home and my food with you. Really, I
mean it when I say "I can't wait for your next visit"!
Drawing from my Lebanese heritage, let me offer
this heartfelt expression of welcome to each and everyone of you - "ahlah wa sahlah"
Posted by: Mary Ann Joulwan | Thursday, July 01, 2010 at 01:32 PM
Hey David!
Did you make Mujadarrah?
Do take photos please.
Cannot wait to hear all about your experience cooking and serving it and savoring it.
Suvir
Posted by: suvir saran | Thursday, July 01, 2010 at 01:42 PM
Mary Ann - you deserve all the warmth and generosity that others can shower you with. You spoil all your friends like few know how. Thanks for always being so kind and gracious.
What does "ahlah wa sahlah" mean?
Posted by: suvir saran | Thursday, July 01, 2010 at 01:43 PM
Suvir,
"Ahlah wa sahlah" means welcome in Arabic. Say it to an Arabic speaking person and see how they react. It's a warm and loving greeting when people are invited to your home and you greet them at the door - or when giving a toast at the table, it means everyone is welcome here. It also feels good to say.
When you come for dinner with Charlie and his grandmother, I will greet you by saying this, loud and clear! Incidentally "ahlah wa sahlah" is singular and said to one person; "ahlan" is plural, meant for more than one person. So this is what I'll use.
Given your generosity and with the way you and Charlie entertain, you would need a recording of this greeting to be turned on every time your doorbell would ring!
Posted by: Mary Ann Joulwan | Thursday, July 01, 2010 at 02:29 PM
Thanks for explaining Mary Ann.
You are the best!
Posted by: suvir saran | Thursday, July 01, 2010 at 03:17 PM
I haven't made it yet. I decided to take a drive down our coastline to Gayle's Bakery in Capitola. An amazing place. I took a class with Gayle and her husband and it was wonderful.
I will get to it before the weekend is over Suvir. I promise.
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Friday, July 02, 2010 at 12:53 AM
What is Gayle's Bakery like? What are they best known for? What did you eat there?
Posted by: suvir saran | Friday, July 02, 2010 at 09:10 AM
Gayle's is 30+ year Capitola institution. Gayle began with the desire to learn how to make croissant. Her husband was painting houses - he supported her dream and is now an expert on bread baking. There place is heavenly, just heavenly. Run exactly the way a place like it should be run. Full cases of everything sweet and savory under the sun. Dozens of regular customers in and out all day long. And then those like me who look to it as our "Mecca." Well worth the drive, Gayle's never disappoints.
I fully support my teacher from chef school that a croissant is never sandwich bread - LOL! Gayle's is the only place I break that rule and have the Almond Tarragon Chicken Salad on a croissant. I can't help myself.
As I leave I always load up on delicious perfection from the pastry case (they are always full - I wish more shop owners understood the beauty AND psychology of that practice):
For my roommate's parents (I stopped for dinner with them on my way home) I purchased:
Strawberry Delight
Three layers of vanilla genoise cake soaked with a strawberry puree ~ one layer of strawberry whipped cream and one layer of pastry cream inside ~ vanilla whipped cream & sliced strawberries on the outside ~ decorated with whole, glazed strawberries on top.
To take home I purchased:
A Red Velvet cupcake (my roomie loves red velvet)
Olalaberry turnovers (magical)
A lemon cake (loaf) imbibed with lemon simple syrup - MMM MM MMM
Gayle's book I give to all new brides and those that want to learn how to bake. It's never done anyone one of us wrong.
And Joe's book on bread is used by boulanger's world wide.
Now I'm hungry!
Check out the link. The picture that comes up is how her cases look all the time!!
http://www.gaylesbakery.com/index.html
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Saturday, July 03, 2010 at 03:13 PM
David, this is wonderful of you to share. I hope to visit Gayle's someday very soon.
What is Olalaberry? Tell me more please.
The strawberry Delight sounds delightful. I want a few of them just about now, at 12:09 AM.
Now I am HUNGRY and for nothing I can sate my hunger with around here. You are naughty to tell us such detailed details. Thanks!
Posted by: suvir saran | Sunday, July 04, 2010 at 12:10 AM
Yes, naughty is often a word used to describe me. :-)
Check this link out for the Ollalieberry. It's very popular in my neck of the woods.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olallieberry
Gayle's is located on the coastal town of Capitola. Just a few miles south of Santa Cruz. And not far from the very popular
=restaurant Manresa. Chef Kinch was just featured on some Food TV program.
The strawberry delight is very easy to make. Genoise with all of that cream and imbibement AND fruit. Heaven!!
Does Charles like food as much as you do?
Posted by: Anthonysgodfather | Sunday, July 04, 2010 at 05:26 AM
Charlie loves food as much as me, perhaps even more. And he cooks very well. He is a great cook because he appreciates and understand great food.
Many people can cook. Many are chefs. A great cook and a great chef, understand the difference between good and great. Between mediocre and bad. It is in the subtle nuances that elevate food from being bad to good, and from being good to great that lies the talent of a person. Be it in a home kitchen or a restaurants.
Thanks for sharing the link to the Olallieberry. Funny that we were just speaking about them with Bill and Holly Briwa who spent the 4th weekend with us at the farm. Lucky you! Enjoy your summer preserving.
Posted by: suvir saran | Tuesday, July 06, 2010 at 07:38 AM
Suvir
Lovely post. Jon Andrew was my dearest friend from university until he left this mortal soil. So sweet to read your your post and know he is remembered so fondly.
Posted by: Perry VoScott | Saturday, December 21, 2013 at 01:23 AM