When Smita and Rahul Bhaiya have cravings, I have to go down memory lane and ensure that what I prepare is the 'Best-Of" in that category. And so, when Smita asked for a tomato soup, I was put to task. Searching in my head, for the best versions of this ubiquitous and most generic of soups. Very quickly and rather assuredly, I came up with Mom's, Betty Osborne's and Wendy London's (Mrs. London's in Saratoga Springs, New York) as my favorite three versions of tomato soup.
It was too late to call Wendy and Michael London. Late for Betty too, but I knew she would forgive me that trespass. And, in fact, it would give us that catch-up-call that was long overdue, but oceans separating us had kept from happening. Of course Mom's version is indelibly printed into my brains notepad. Betty's was as basic and correct as the best recipes would have been. I am not surprised. Wendy and Michael's will remain a mystery, and was what guided me, with equal help from Betty and mom, into Smita's kitchen, to do what I thought would get me to that bowlful of incredibleness that is always at hand for all to experience at Mrs. London's.
Smita had ordered 3 kilos of tomatoes. Romas. I used 2.5 kilos. Sliced them in half across the middle. Rubbed them with some EVOO till they were nicely glossy. Placed them in a roasting pan and into the oven. that was preheated to 200˚C. They were in my head going to luxuriate in that hot bath of sorts for an hour, but it ended up being more like an hour and fifteen minutes.
A few minutes, or fifteen minutes after I had put the tomatoes into the oven, I realized I had put them in naked, No herbs or spices added to them to add some fun to their bath, and layers of flavor for the palate to discover when enjoying the soup. And so, a tad late, I added freshly ground black peppercorn into the roasting pan. Grated generously (about a tablespoon) over the roasting tomatoes. As you can see in the photo.
An hour and fifteen minutes later, this is what the tomatoes looked like. I see happy faces when I see these tomatoes. What do you see? I also see the beginnings of rich flavor and great color.
In a heavy bottomed soup pan, melt butter with EVOO, add Herbes de Provence, freshly ground mixed peppercorn, a bay leaf, 3 cloves and some fresh herbs. Smita had plenty of basil, and so, it was basil in this pan. Bloom the herbs and spices for a few minutes, till the cloves get plump, and you can smell the essential oils of the aromatics in your kitchen.
Once the aromatics had bloomed in the fat, I added onions (1 large red onions, or three small ones), two carrots, and some celery (none in this version). With them I added some sea salt. And began cooking and stirring and feeling good about the deliciousness that was going to make its way into soup bowls at Smita's table later.
With onions soft, and tender carrots, I knew it was now time to get to the tomatoes. You want the onions to be browning at the edges and getting sandy colored, but be supple still. There should be moisture in the pan. It should not be dry.
The roasted Romas make it into the soup pot. Look at them, be proud of your patience. Sautee these oven roasted tomatoes in the pan for a good five minutes.
Add 2 cups of tomato puree, or tomato juice. If adding juice, cook for 5-8 minutes to thicken the juice and make it jammy. If using puree, just bring it to a boil.
Once the puree has come to a boil, or the tomato juice has become somewhat thick and jammy, use an immersion blender and carefully, without splattering yourself and the kitchen counter, blend the contents of the pan into the soup you want it to be. Airy and thick as a bisque, or soupy and as runny and thin as you like. For a runny soup add water or broth. Otherwise enjoy a creamy and deeply delicious bowl of tomato bisque, that will feed your memories kitchen with delicious cravings for a lifetime and more.
Smita was smitten with a taste of the soup stove side. Rahul Bhaiya got a teaser portion in a tiny cup between lunch and dinner. His reaction was everything I could have paid someone to give me. "This is the soup we had at the restaurant in Saratoga", he said. Of course remembering his bowl of magical deliciousness that was savored whilst visiting us in North Country and in Saratoga one afternoon, when we had sauntered into Mrs. London's for a bite of lunch.
Little did he know that of my three favorite tomato soups, it is Wendy London's at Mrs. London's that I revere most. That he had gone floating back to Saratoga Spring, and especially to Mrs. London's perfect bowl of tomato soup, as he tasted a first bite of what I had made in his kitchen, was by accident, the highest praise he or anyone, could have given me that day,
I might never ask Michael and Wendy for their recipe. Just because I am like that. Not because they wouldn't give it. It is a signature dish of their venerated establishment. I would honor them by not even asking them for that. It remains a favorite of mine. A bowlful of amazement that captivates my love, affection, appetite and memory, forever. Nothing could replace its brilliance.
Betty Osborne's tomato soup, a close second, has been a blessing that I have been lucky to have had in my life and most abundantly. She is a lady of incredible grace and a heart that is larger than continents and this world. At her table I have experienced some of the most incredible feasts and moments. That will haunt me beyond this lifetime. That this soup was close to hers, a thrill for me, and it is my hope that I can make it for her someday.
Mom's tomato soup gave me a lifetime of sound culinary training and wise tutelage. Her's is cooking that is smarter than brilliant at its core, spartan where it counts, deliciously comforting, fuss-free and intuitively light and deeply satisfying at once. I am lucky to call her mom, and luckier to have been able to learn at her side.
This tomato soup was a token of my appreciation for Smita and Rahul Bhaiya, who have given me a home and kitchen whilst away from the farm, but also my homage to four incredible people - Mom, Betty, Wendy and Michael.
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